Bike is at around 16,800 miles.. Not sure if valves have ever been checked/adjusted. Does bike sound like it takes too long to start? This is a cold start, after the bike starts nearly instantly of pushing button. I tried doing valve check today, got to the part where I needed to remove rear cowl and gas tank and got intimidated and just put everything back on... I have a few questions regarding valve check.

1. Do you take the gas tank off? Or do you just prop it up?

2. Do you touch CCT at all when checking?

3. Will I need to sync throttle bodies when done with check/adjustment?

 

Start up sounds fine and healthy to me. Or is my bike on the slow starting side? haha

1. You don't have to take it off. You can if you want to, but you will have to drain or plug the gas somehow. Whatever you would prefer. I find it easy to just prop it up, I used ratchet straps to tie it to the subframe.

2. You want the CCT to be on when you're hand turning the motor. Otherwise the chain can skip a tooth in which case you have to reset the timing. You want the CCT off when you're removing the camshafts.

3. You don't have to, but it's always a nice thing to do!

 

Bro....you don't touch the rear cowl during a valve inspec. If removing body work intimidates you then you have no business taking an engine apart, that's some easy to mess up and expensive to fix stuff inside. But if you must....

Go to the tech section of this forum. Download the oem shop manual. Do exactly what it says.

 

Lol I didn't even catch the rear cowl part!!
well, I guess taking it off doesnt hurt anything...

 

you don't have to take it off, but unscrew the front part when you go to prop the tank up, you might crack that part of the cowl otherwise. i think the service manual might say to remove it.

you aren't going to screw up your engine checking the valve clearances, it's nothing to be scared of (although it's easy to measure them wrong), and if they're in spec, you can put it back together no problem. no special tools required but a feeler gauge. the worst you're going to do is mess up the sealant on the cover and get some oil weepage.

adjusting them is a different story.. these are the things you have to avoid (these are all real stories)

- warping the cam holder plate due to mistorquing resulting in top end oil flow problems or cam binds up and kaboom
- incorrect cam timing...installing two cams with that chain in the right time is kinda bitchy
- dropping shims in your motor, pretty easy to do if you aren't careful, and you can't leave them in there
- nicking a cam lobe while you're fumbing around removing or installing them
- bad math or measurements while you're shimming could make things worse or cause you to have to re-do the job, increasing risk of damaging something
- if you aren't careful you could mix up your cam buckets and one will bind
- might not be able to find the correct size of shim(s) locally and have the bike layed up while some stealership backorders them

 

Haha "stealership". Nice one rfesu. I haven't heard that one before, (and I thought I'd heard 'em all).

 

Mate I am surprised. All the forums use stealership to refer to stealerships . Have you been living under a rock ?

I hope the OP is not confused due to the fast idle feature. IT will rev a lot and then settle to the idle. This takes esp long during the winter months anyway

 

Yeah, man. It's true. First time I've heard it. I'm not much of a forum user. This is actually the only one I use and I've only been here for a few months. It's spot on though. They really are stealerships considering the way they charge. Even the average bike shop seems to charge an arm and a leg. That might just be round here though. Perth's a bloody expensive city to live in these days. Lucky I'm not too bad with my hands.

Yeah, mine will sit around 2500 or so for a few minutes at least before she settles down to around a grand. OP said he was worried about how long it took to start up but it starts up beautifully in the video so yeah, maybe he was talking about the built in warm up period.