1st oil change - mineral or synthetic?
#1
07-09-2006, 03:20 PM
1st oil change - mineral or synthetic?
Hey I'm doing some research regarding the first oil change on my F4i at 600 miles, and am wondering if I should start off with mineral oil and ease it into synthetic, or start off with synthetic right away? For mineral oil I was looking at Repsol or Silkolene...I'm not too informed though about the different brands and what not. Any feedback would be appreciated!
P.S. I did use the search button, sorry if it's a repost but I didn't find the info I need.
P.S. I did use the search button, sorry if it's a repost but I didn't find the info I need.
#2
07-09-2006, 03:36 PM
Ironmang
RE: 1st oil change - mineral or synthetic?
I'd stick with mineral for the first couple oil changes, then around 5000 or so is a good time to switch. That way it's good and broken in before switching. As for synthetic oils, I always recommend Mobil 1. Either MX4T 10w-40 (motorcycle oil), or gold cap 15w-50 (car oil). I use both in mine, the MX4T in the winter and the gold cap in the summer since it's a little thicker for the mad heat. Both work fantastic. Been using the Mobil 1 in mine since 5000 miles, which was almost 55,000 miles ago... good stuff!
#3
07-09-2006, 04:10 PM
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#6
07-09-2006, 07:09 PM
#7
07-09-2006, 07:24 PM
RE: 1st oil change - mineral or synthetic?
Go right to synthetic. There really is no entended breakin period today. Your motor does most of the breaking in in the first 30 minutes of driving, which is why it is important to break it in fairly hard.
Don't baby it. You want a decent amount of pressure built up so that the rings seat properly. Better ring seal means more HP and less contaminants blowing past the rings and into the case and oil.
As for the motor needing several thousand miles to break in before going to full synthetic, it's an old wives tale. No facts to it on a modern sportbike.
Your break in period should not consist of beating on it at redline the entire time, but you should just ride it like you are going to ride it. Also, change the oil before the 600 mile mark. Those first few miles are the dirtiest your oil will ever be, so don't run around with the crap in it for 600 miles.
I broke mine in moderately hard, changing the oil at 50 miles, 300 and again at 500 miles where I switched to full synthetic. Bike runs great at 5500 miles and puts down 100HP at the rear wheel with a slipon exhaust.
The manual says do the slow breakin period for warranty reasons, and because they make the assumption that you are a new rider for legal reasons, so they give you the most idiot-proof way to get accomodated to the bike rather than have some newbie get out and get on it right away and kill himself.
Don't baby it. You want a decent amount of pressure built up so that the rings seat properly. Better ring seal means more HP and less contaminants blowing past the rings and into the case and oil.
As for the motor needing several thousand miles to break in before going to full synthetic, it's an old wives tale. No facts to it on a modern sportbike.
Your break in period should not consist of beating on it at redline the entire time, but you should just ride it like you are going to ride it. Also, change the oil before the 600 mile mark. Those first few miles are the dirtiest your oil will ever be, so don't run around with the crap in it for 600 miles.
I broke mine in moderately hard, changing the oil at 50 miles, 300 and again at 500 miles where I switched to full synthetic. Bike runs great at 5500 miles and puts down 100HP at the rear wheel with a slipon exhaust.
The manual says do the slow breakin period for warranty reasons, and because they make the assumption that you are a new rider for legal reasons, so they give you the most idiot-proof way to get accomodated to the bike rather than have some newbie get out and get on it right away and kill himself.
#9
07-10-2006, 05:50 AM
#10
07-10-2006, 10:05 AM