1st gear riding on clutch only
#11
MSF teaches you how to use the friction zone to help control your bike at slower speeds. Compared to a clutch in a car, you can "ride" the clutch more on most motorcycles that have a wet clutch since the oil lubes the clutch plates. If you have taken the MSF BRC, then you should have learned about how to use the friction zone and should be comfortable, if not proficient, using your clutch. If your coach passed you and you had problems using the clutch through the class, then either the bike was not maintained properly or you needed more practice with the clutch (more time in ex. 2. In either case mentioned, the coach did you a disservice.
Using the friction zone at a higher than proficient level takes time and practice. You also learn that as your clutch enters the friction zone, you start to apply a little throttle to keep the revs from falling and the bike from stalling. It's not a lot, just enough to keep you moving. All bikes are different and require a different amount of throttle. Not enough throttle, the bike usually jerks, comes to a stop, and the engine stalls; too much throttle and the bike can get away from you. Also, your bike will be different from and MSF bike so the clutch will engage in a different location. Actually, this is true with any bike, including same brand and model. Anyway. as you let the clutch out and the bike starts to roll, you should continue to let it out smoothly. Don't just dump the clutch (let it the rest of the way out quickly) once the bike is moving. If you have driven a standard shift car the principle is the same.
To cover the basics, you should ease the clutch out and as the bike starts to roll (the clutch is in the friction zone at this point) you should start to apply some throttle. As your speed stables and you can smoothly apply more throttle and ease the clutch the rest of the way out.
Hope I have not confused you.
Using the friction zone at a higher than proficient level takes time and practice. You also learn that as your clutch enters the friction zone, you start to apply a little throttle to keep the revs from falling and the bike from stalling. It's not a lot, just enough to keep you moving. All bikes are different and require a different amount of throttle. Not enough throttle, the bike usually jerks, comes to a stop, and the engine stalls; too much throttle and the bike can get away from you. Also, your bike will be different from and MSF bike so the clutch will engage in a different location. Actually, this is true with any bike, including same brand and model. Anyway. as you let the clutch out and the bike starts to roll, you should continue to let it out smoothly. Don't just dump the clutch (let it the rest of the way out quickly) once the bike is moving. If you have driven a standard shift car the principle is the same.
To cover the basics, you should ease the clutch out and as the bike starts to roll (the clutch is in the friction zone at this point) you should start to apply some throttle. As your speed stables and you can smoothly apply more throttle and ease the clutch the rest of the way out.
Hope I have not confused you.
#13
You can ride it on the clutch only. My 01 idles at 1400 and if i let it out slow enough on flat ground it will ride without giving it gas. And i weight 215
#14
to check and see if your clutch is not fully engaging, check your lever and see if you have free play in it. meaning you can wiggle it a little bit without it putting tension on the cable. a little slack in this situation i would think to be a good thing...just don't have too much. think about a "nickel" width is the goal.
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