01 f4i no spark
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09-03-2018, 01:02 PM
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01 f4i no spark
2001 Honda CBR 600 F4i Stunt bike
Mods: Woodcraft Bypass for key-less ignition
NO SPARK AND FUEL PUMP PRIMES'!
To make a long story short there is was a lose terminal on my battery ( ground wire ) that moved and caused a spark while my bike was running and it just died after that. My seat was off and I watched it happen. Started trying to start the bike again and it sounded like it wanted to turn over, but just would not turn. I smelled gas heavily while I was attempting to get it to turn. The battery had a 12 volt charge, but went down to about 8 volts when cranking so I replaced the battery. Tried cranking the bike again with no luck, but the starts sounded 20x better than it did with my old battery. Next phase in diagnostics was to replace the plugs which I thought maybe fouled out. Pulled them out and grounded them and still no luck. (Little side note: anyone looking for plugs for these bikes and have to run iridium check auto-zone or advanced auto they have these plugs for 50-70 percent cheaper than most bike shops (online or in person) who charge close to 20 dollars for these things!) Put new plugs in and still did not start. Checked all fuses and even replaced the main because it was so old. My initial and still current theory is that the ECM is shot, but theories only becomes theories unless disproved. So this was my new task is to disprove this theory. I broke out my trusty voltage meter again and started chasing wires. I ruled out my starter switch itself because obviously it wants to try to crank the bike. My key ignition is completely bypassed by a Woodcraft bypass for a key less ignition. The CDI box is built into my ECM so there is no way of testing that. So far things I have tested for resistance (ohms) and voltage are all four coils, coil plugs, ignition switch, and cam pulse generator. Everything I tested matched up to the manuals specification as well. Wiring harness looks pretty good and I see no visible burn marks. Outside of the ECM I do not know what to test or look for. I am hoping to disprove my theory of it being the ECM because these things are close to 1000 dollars brand new and still very pricey for a risk off Fleabay at 400-500 dollars. Anyone else have a suggestion?
Mods: Woodcraft Bypass for key-less ignition
NO SPARK AND FUEL PUMP PRIMES'!
To make a long story short there is was a lose terminal on my battery ( ground wire ) that moved and caused a spark while my bike was running and it just died after that. My seat was off and I watched it happen. Started trying to start the bike again and it sounded like it wanted to turn over, but just would not turn. I smelled gas heavily while I was attempting to get it to turn. The battery had a 12 volt charge, but went down to about 8 volts when cranking so I replaced the battery. Tried cranking the bike again with no luck, but the starts sounded 20x better than it did with my old battery. Next phase in diagnostics was to replace the plugs which I thought maybe fouled out. Pulled them out and grounded them and still no luck. (Little side note: anyone looking for plugs for these bikes and have to run iridium check auto-zone or advanced auto they have these plugs for 50-70 percent cheaper than most bike shops (online or in person) who charge close to 20 dollars for these things!) Put new plugs in and still did not start. Checked all fuses and even replaced the main because it was so old. My initial and still current theory is that the ECM is shot, but theories only becomes theories unless disproved. So this was my new task is to disprove this theory. I broke out my trusty voltage meter again and started chasing wires. I ruled out my starter switch itself because obviously it wants to try to crank the bike. My key ignition is completely bypassed by a Woodcraft bypass for a key less ignition. The CDI box is built into my ECM so there is no way of testing that. So far things I have tested for resistance (ohms) and voltage are all four coils, coil plugs, ignition switch, and cam pulse generator. Everything I tested matched up to the manuals specification as well. Wiring harness looks pretty good and I see no visible burn marks. Outside of the ECM I do not know what to test or look for. I am hoping to disprove my theory of it being the ECM because these things are close to 1000 dollars brand new and still very pricey for a risk off Fleabay at 400-500 dollars. Anyone else have a suggestion?
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