I've been having wiring trouble on my bike since I got it. Theres been a constant drain on the battery for one. Two, the green/red wire from the starter relay was grounded. The previous owner had done that. Now, the 30amp main fuse keeps blowing as soon as i plug the brown connector back onto the starter relay.

I tried reconnecting the green/red wire back to the green/red wire (says in my manual it goes to the "diode" and the "clutch switch"). When I did that, the fuse would stop blowing, but I couldn't get it to crank. Anyone have ideas?

I think the constant drain was because the relay was always getting a ground. Am I right? What is the "diode"?

 

I'm kind of an idiot when it comes to electrical, but here's what I can suggest, for finding a short in your wiring.

Put an ammeter in line with the negative battery terminal, and the negative cable, and see what kind of current draw is occurring - I personally wouldn't want to see more leakage then about .75 to 1mA.
Now, start removing fuses, one at a time, to identify which circuit it is, where the draw is occurring, then, start disconnecting/reconnecting individual components on that particular circuit, one at a time, until you've once again eliminated the current draw... you've now found the portion of the electrical system wherein you have the short!

My 6 series had a particular circuit where at times there was a 500mA draw!! This method is how I found the circuit at fault... I used to just pull that particular fuse out, when I parked it! Strangely enough, by the time I got around to not being lazy, and tried to probe deeper for the specific problem, I found the drain had simply "gone away"! I've since left that car sitting for up 3 to 5 days at a time, or more, and the battery is still fine, so, who knows, right?

Crap, now that I've "flaunted" my luck in this case, the drain will probably soon come back!

 

Thats a great idea, I didn't think of that. Now if I can only get the electrical system to stay on long enough without blowing the main fuse

LOL yea right man that was the best advice I've gotten all day, thanks

Murphy's law right?

Come to think of it, I remember reading about the plastic electrical connectors randomly melting and failing on these bikes from corrosion and what not. In fact, my rectifier wire connectors already melted a while back. I soldered them together and went a few months without problem. I'll just go over every connector, hopefully my problem is as simple as one having melted

 

When you say "stay on", do you mean the bike actually running, or having the electrical system "live", like just connected at the battery, but with the bike off, and no items "turned on"?
The reason I ask, is because the routine I was enumerating in my first post, can be done, and should be done, with everything turned off - the short will show itself even with out the bike on.
Now, if nothing shows up, you can increase the amperage range on the multimeter (so you don't blow a fuse in the ammeter), and then turn the switch on, then you will have a draw that should be there, and then begin to do things like turn on the high beams, press the brakes to turn on the stop light, use signals, etc., to see if you notice a LARGE spike in outgoing amperage, as these items should not use much power.
All that said, I'm thinking you won't need to do any of this with the bike on, as it sounds like you know there's a drain with the bike off, additionally, it sounds like we already know that it just might be associated with the main circuit anyway... if you see a draw, and then it goes away when you pull that main fuse, then that solidifies that suspicion... I think!

Well, that's the ONLY advice you'd gotten all day!! On this forum, anyway!

Well, getting some corrosion in certain plugs/connections is not so strange, when it comes to items that are exposed to the elements, like the kill switch on the right switchgear, but the melted connector at the R/R is usually due to the R/R failing, and not dissipating the heat sufficiently, which is the reason for its failure in the first place!
If you haven't replaced that R/R, and honestly, even if you have (you could have gotten a bad replacement), I would use the electrical tests in the manual, to check the R/R, or just go to that "sticky" in the tech section about the R/R, as I bet there's tests listed there, or links to such.

 

I got the problem fixed! For anybody else reading with possibly a similar problem I'll explain:

I mean, with the battery connected and no key even in the ignition, as soon as I would attach the main relay connector that houses the main fuse, the main fuse would blow. I took your advice and took a look again at my wiring diagram. The 3 wires that come out of that connector (4, but my green one isn't connected) go to 3 places. I disconnected the connectors at all 3 places and went from there.

Hit the nail on the head, I determined the problem was coming from the rectifier ( a cheap eBay replacement). I could have everything plugged in and the electrical system on with no problems as long as the rectifier was not connected. I put an old stock rectifier I had lying around in its place and problem solved.

I also have the green wire coming from the main relay connector on a ground switch. When the switch is on, the wire receives a ground and the bike can start. When its off it gets nothing. I'm pretty sure this solved the battery drain problem as well. It makes sense, if the relay is always receiving the ground that it should only receive when the clutch is being pulled, it will always draw current.