So last year i disassembled my engine and got it ready to split. I went on deployment and now that i'm home i'm ready to finish my project. When looking at the pictures don't focus on the little shavings. It's wood dust from when my friend and I were building his bed. I thought i had the engine covered but obviously not well enough, but that's another thing.

Anyway, so the initial problem was the tranny would slip out of gear at high RPM under heavy acceleration. It began around 12,000rpm but over the course of time it worked down as low as 6-7K. At that point I couldn't take it any longer and decided to swap engines, I got one for $500 from a guy who owned a small garage shop in SD. It was an unknown mileage or condition engine. All he knew is it came from an F2 and it was known to run before removed. I did the swap myself in a weekend, flushed fluids and went on my way.

The first engine had been drag raced (by myself) i'm guessing around 200 passes down the 1/4 mile strip at Great Lakes Dragaway in Union Grove, Wisconsin and a couple dozen times at the Qualcomm Stadium 1/8 mile strip. Even at 41,000 miles the engine hauled serious butt, had no abnormal vibrations or any problems aside from having to put in an manual cct.

My shift forks were destroyed, under half thier original thickness with serious ridges and discoloration. Can I get by with just getting three new shift forks and putting it back together?

So here i am with my original engine learning as I go. Can some of the more knowledgeable help me better understand the workings of the the CBR transmission? I understand the shift forks move the gears, but i've heard the term dogs used loosely and believe I understand it but clarification would be awesome. What i think is the dogs looks to be in excelent condition with nearly zero wear


http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...9/DSC00667.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...9/DSC00670.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...9/DSC00671.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...9/DSC00673.jpg

 

Well good news! My mechanic told me that it looked really good from what he could see and doesn't expect me to require and new gears. Just shift forks. I'm going to split the case and bring the shafts to him so he can inspect everything along with the shift drum. He said as long as my bearings aren't damaged, i should be fine resembling the engine case without touching anything else.


OOOHhhhh am i excited!!! Next is my fear of the engine not turning over... It's been sitting for a long time!

 

Sweet. You must of done some pretty hard shifting to bend some forks.

 

are you one of those "grind it til you find it" kind of guys? just kidding. dont worry about it firing up. as long as there isnt something big time wrong with it that you cant see it shouldnt be a problem. ive found that these motors are surprisingly tough.

 

Make sure your mechanic is SURE sure the dog teeth are fine. I had the same fork problem and the clusters looked fine, but when I broke them down and saw how rounded 1st and 2nd were, I had to find a new set of gears. It's hard to see sometimes without unstacking the clusters.

Also: You MUST carefully inspect the shift drum. You know how every time a bell rings an angel gets its wings? Every time a superbike motor slips out of gear at high revs, your shift drum changes shape. Follow EVERY fork guide path and make sure there are no irregularities or chips.

 

Yep. Definitly did. My best pass down the 1/4 mile was 11.86 - I always had my left foot on the peg planted and ready to shift into second while my right leg kept me upright until the tree droped. My release RPM was usually 8.8-9.2K and i would clutch it out where the front tire levitated off the tarmac all through first. Slam it into second and continue my pass. The bad thing is I had to shift into the next gear right before the end of the 1/4mi.

Not the best E.T. from what i've seen the F2 can do but I thought it was pretty good. I could hold my own with every 600 newer but they pulled away at the last moment. I think with a rejetting it could have performed better. My favorite race was against a fully decked out SV650 that had a ton of performance modifications. I left him choking in my dust every pass we made. Not one time could he even get close to beating me.

Jet draggsters are too cool. If you've never seen one, you need to before you die.

Maybe... time has it's way of exposing issues now doesn't it?

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At the time i didn't have the money, i was saving up. I got my $500 spendin dough and went and got the motor.

The motor still cooperated if i babied her, but that's not the way i roll.
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I like to carve the canyons... And get to work before my buddy on his Harley does. We used to compete and trust me, a Soft Tail might not seem impressive, but with my 88 cubic inches and my friend... woah. That guy scraped every corner we took and i had to struggle to pass his torque. But no worries, this is all on the expressway in traffic. Torque has its advantages. The day we went to the canyons he almost killed himself trying to stay with me. I had to stop and remind him to slow the F down.

 

Yeah you're exactly right. It looked good, the damage was to the hidden dogs. I have quite a few that look ugly. I attached 5 pics.

 

That's not horrific, really, but anything that kicked it out of gear must have been bad. The rounding is moderate, but what really impresses me is the deformation of the dog in that last pic.

So I have a super weird question. Do you know for sure that the small aluminum oil orifice/dowel pins go in that way? Per the service manual, it should have been installed the other way around, but I've found multiple pictures of them being installed as your pic shows, with the larger bore facing the lower cases. It says clearly in the service manual: "Caution: Install the oil orifice with the smaller diameter side facing the lower crankcase." It shows the same situation in the pictures of the crankcase assembly in the manual. I'd love to get this straightened out... I'm wondering if Honda put them in the "wrong way," and then corrected the service manual so anyone who took their motors apart would be encouraged by the manual to perform this change.

 

Sorry to not understand but can you clarify? Which picture and what location. I'm still learning the internal workings of the motor. I can always ask my mechanic next time i see him. He's been wrenching professionally since before the Hurricane was a thought... lol

 

I removed the other motor from the bike and split the case on Thursday. Only second gear on the countershaft needed to be replaced. Total cost of repair parts is $266 with tax. The second motor's trans was perfect aside from wear on 1st and 2nd gear. The shift forks look brand new! More pics soon.