Stupid carb question
 

when i took my carbs off i noticed 2 fittings that went to nothing!! they are like a white color and spin up and down. i went on bikebandit.com to look at the schematics and looks like they are supposed to hook together with 2 hoses and a tee. the question is what goes on the other part of the tee???? obviously the left and right side of it just have the hoses to connect those 2 fittings together but no idea what goes on the back side of the tee which would be facing the rear of the bike. please help!! im hoping this is why my bike stutters at about 60 mph and when i let off the gas it bogs down and kicks right in.

anybody???? lol if u go to bikebandit.com for a 94 cbr f2 and look at the carb schematics the hoses are number 33 and the go to a tee fitting. is the end of the tee blocked off? or is there supposed to be another hose? or can i get away with blocking the 2 fittings

Sometimes it takes a while for the right person's eye to catch your post.
A little patience and I bet that person will pop off a post, helping you out.

That said, here's my take...

Is it a california model? If so, it looks like someone has pulled the re-breather line,
that goes to an air-valve from the air-box. I THINK! This is just a guess,
based on what I think I'm seeing. I haven't actually worked on an F2.


Good luck, Ern

Its carb breather, I'm positive. My 94 has them, not California model.

I think you should take a pic

Those are breathers,as sure as I can be without seeing the bike.Won't affect anything without hoses attached,do NOT block them off.
These bikes are notorious for needing the petcocks rebuilt,but your problem could be any number of things,what rpm does it bog at? Does it only happen in the upper gears,4th,5th 6th? Whats been done to the bike?What jetting if any has been changed?

Also positive it is the carb breathers. if they hang from the back of the carbs and pointed towards each other in a over-laping fashion, leave those hoses alone. I suggest leaving the hoses on there and not removing them, less dirt allowed into the carbs. Carbs get finicky when introduced to dirt.

ok there are some hoses connected on the bottom of the carb. these are by the main breather hose. must be a breather also because its running fine right now. will find out tomorrow when i take it to work if its fixed. was all stock jets when i got it. i put in a dynojet stage 1 with the 126 main jets. people say 135 is stock why go to 126 it leans it out.. but according to dynojet their numbers are different and dont run with the factory numbers. kit says 1.5 turns on air fuel screw. and 2nd groove on the needles. that didnt work but right now i have 1/4 of the k&n covered with duct tape, 3rd groove on needles and 2 turns out. it was bogging in every gear and every rpm. almost sounded like a misfire when it was cruising. ran great when i put it on half choke goin down the road except for if i gave her some!! then it would bog but figured it wouldnt be perfect since im runnin with choke on haha. got my fingers crossed i found the right set up. still a lil lean though, has a lil backfire when i let off the gas

Wow.Running with the choke adds fuel,indicating its lean without it,most likely the pilot jets are blocked when this happens.taping over the k&n is not the way I would go,mine ran fine with one on 124 mains.You're also denying the engine of air,air makes power so add fuel,but you shouldn't have to.Something weird going on with that thing.
What do you have for an exhaust? If still stock or cheap slip ons,put the stock air filter back in,try 122 or 124 mains.
3rd clip is where the needle should be,fyi needle position controls mid range,once you're past 7-8000 rpm its all main jet.

If you are going to run the 126 jets and recommended settings with the kit, ditch the K&N, and replace it with an OEM paper filter, otherwise you will run VERY lean in all circuits.
If you don't want to spend any more money, and want to use the K&N (assuming it's been cleaned and re-oiled recently enough), peel the tape off, and follow the recommended settings for use with a K&N or other "hi-flow" type filter - I ASSUME there is base setup info with the kit for that, Factory Pro kits do provide that information, but I've never used DynoJet, only Factory Pro.

As an example, with the Factory Pro kit, the 126 mains were the recommendation for stock setup, but everything changed for the K&N, with the kit calling for 2nd needle clip position, 2 turns out for fuel screws, and 138 mains - with a Two Bros race header, Yoshimura RS-3 can, and the K&N filter, I ended up using 142 mains, third clip from the bottom, and I beleive 3 turns out of the fuel screws, to get optimum power... this is just some comparison info, it might not be the same for you.