The more I think about it, the more I'm convinced that it is related to vacuum. Could it be that the vacuum line doesn't get the gravity based petcock to feed gas into the system? Hmmm... Gotta go look at it now .

 

So I got new parts for the exhaust system, more exactly the gaskets, bolts and M8-to-M7-pins that goes into the engine housing. I got two of the M8-to-M7-out by tightening the bolts near the engines so that they somehow jacked into the pins and could be use as something to grip when loosening them. However, four of the pins seem more or less rusted stuck. I have used WD40, I have tapped them with a hammer, I have tried everything but welding since I don't know how to weld. Any ideas? I don't know how the engineers were thinking when they constructed those pins. Couldn't they at least have given them a nutlike appearance in the center of the pin to be used for tightening/loosening?

 

It could be, as the diaphragm in the petcock could be damaged - then what can happen, depending on how bad the diaphragm valve assembly is messed up (if it is), is the vacuum from cylinder 1 can suck fuel into the cylinder through that vacuum line, throwing things off in yet another way.

 

Migge, when you say "pins", are you talking about the studs screwed into the block for mounting the headers?

 

Exactly, I mean the studs. Sometimes I get confused with all them words flying around in English, Swedish and lord knows what other languages I mix them up with. But those are the ones.

 

Screw two nuts back to back onto the threads, tighten against each other and use the inner one to turn the stud out. Try to hit the wrench with a hammer rather than turning hard to nudge the stuck thread loose or you risk snapping the stud in the threads which would get you to another realm of getting p!ssed! Trust me that'll surely get tools flying!

 

Mattson, you are indeed a genius. Will try that tomorrow! Thank you so much. Owe you like a ****load of beer for that tip!

 

The simplest way to remove/install a stud, is to use two nuts on the stud, tightened against each other, so that when you turn the inside nut counter-clockwise, when removing a stud, it locks against the outside nut, and loosens the stud from the part it's threaded into.
It's ideal, when the two nuts line up with the sides all matching, so you can use your wrench/socket on both nuts at the same time, kind of like in this picture:



Obviously, penetrating oil can help, and heating the surface the stud is screwed into can ease removal as well, but of course, the worst case scenario is the stud can snap off, leaving you with a much bigger job, so proceed with caution!

 

Aw shucks, Mattson beat me to it while I was distracted with my job!!!
Well, Migge, give me a beer anyway!!

 

JNS, you brought pics so I guess I owe you a ****load of beer as well. Thanks a lot, guys! Where would I be without you, amigos?