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Regulator rectifier (R/R) problem solved

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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 11:36 AM
  #81  
vikinglord's Avatar
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Default 93 CBR600 F2 Rectifier upgrade

Hello all
Just had a question about R/R as ive just upgraded mine to a FHO16AA mosfet type from a 2008 kawasaki ZX6R P7. I followed the guide below to the dot. All wiring checks out as i bypassed old loom and went straight to the battery for my regulator +- feed. Stator checks out fine and im getting 14.65v at idle and about 14.7v at 5000rpm. I start scratching my head when i turn the lights on as it immedietly drops to 12.5v and then steadily keeps dropping to just barely above 12v. At 5000rpm it sits at about 12.7v. I had just taken my battery off my optimate and it had told me it was ok. Does this sound like a bad battery? Or have i missed something? Any help would be fantastic.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 07:22 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by vikinglord
Hello all
Just had a question about R/R as ive just upgraded mine to a FHO16AA mosfet type from a 2008 kawasaki ZX6R P7. I followed the guide below to the dot. All wiring checks out as i bypassed old loom and went straight to the battery for my regulator +- feed. Stator checks out fine and im getting 14.65v at idle and about 14.7v at 5000rpm. I start scratching my head when i turn the lights on as it immedietly drops to 12.5v and then steadily keeps dropping to just barely above 12v. At 5000rpm it sits at about 12.7v. I had just taken my battery off my optimate and it had told me it was ok. Does this sound like a bad battery? Or have i missed something? Any help would be fantastic.
Switching on lighting will load the existing circuit with everything in that circuit. It sounds like a heavy load for just some lighting. What you want to do is check the current draw. Essentially what you will want to do is check every connection in the lighting circuit is integral. For example, if the socket for a lamp has loose and/or corroded connection, then undesired resistance will be the effect. Resistance means load. Ideally, you only want the load from the burn of the filament of any lighting bulbs. Replace/repair corroded/loose connections and use dielectric grease to keep moisture out of the connections.

I replaced my 99 919 RR with one out of an late model R1 and it's been running like a charm for over 10,000kms. But I also pulled my entire harness which I found to be a mashup from another bike. I rebuilt every connection to make sure it was 100% integral. Very important.

Good luck!
 
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 06:01 PM
  #83  
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Well got back out on it today and found that the middle pin on the connector going to the stator had not clicked in properly which was causing the inadequate voltage when i turned the lights on. Actually took connector off and soldered the stator wires to the rectifier ones. Checked all over again and im getting >14.7v at 5000rpm and getting same just off idle with all lights on. Problem solved.
Cheers
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 05:52 PM
  #84  
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hm, TTT men! having serious issues here. Heres a copy/paste from my post...

F2 sat up for over a yr. Cleaned carbs. Drained the old fuel, she fired RIGHT UP(honda for you!).. BUT she wont run w/o jumper cables. At first I thought it was just a ****e battery after sitting for so long, plus the battery was dry. The guy I bought her from a few yrs ago said she did somthing similar and he replaced the rectifier, but shouldnt it still run without cables??? I'm stumped. Do I go ahead and grab the R/R or the new battery?? Searched through many threads but not sure if she should be running without cables even if the R/R is bad... PS isnt there a way I can ghetto up a Camaro rectifier and at least ride whilst waiting on the UPS guy???????? Please help friends, I NEED TO RIDE
 
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Old Mar 30, 2011 | 09:23 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by kingyeddi
hm, TTT men! having serious issues here. Heres a copy/paste from my post...

F2 sat up for over a yr. Cleaned carbs. Drained the old fuel, she fired RIGHT UP(honda for you!).. BUT she wont run w/o jumper cables. At first I thought it was just a ****e battery after sitting for so long, plus the battery was dry. The guy I bought her from a few yrs ago said she did somthing similar and he replaced the rectifier, but shouldnt it still run without cables??? I'm stumped. Do I go ahead and grab the R/R or the new battery?? Searched through many threads but not sure if she should be running without cables even if the R/R is bad... PS isnt there a way I can ghetto up a Camaro rectifier and at least ride whilst waiting on the UPS guy???????? Please help friends, I NEED TO RIDE
Take your battery to an automotive center for testing. Those tester units check for performance when loaded. They check for ability to hold the charge which can be difficult to identify. Either way, sounds like a battery issue. I wouldnt be riding until it was cleared up. The electrical system is a finely balanced one. Any issues can lead to anything from being stranded to total loss in fire. Don't let an inconvenience turn into your worst nightmare. ;-)
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 12:07 PM
  #86  
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It was just the battery. sorry if I got all paranoid on ya'll lol
 
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Old May 7, 2011 | 06:13 PM
  #87  
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Can this work on f4?

Thanks,
Kyle
 
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Old May 7, 2011 | 07:23 PM
  #88  
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New here from pensacola fl. My 1994 f2 will not stay running longer than 20 miles or so. drove it to work last week. pulling up at work i felt alot of heat coming from under seat. After work bike wouldn't start.Pushed started it. she made it almost home and died again at a red light. any ideas?
 
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Old May 14, 2011 | 08:57 PM
  #89  
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Just wanted to add this option, $110 on ebay.

FH012
Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums





Yeah, stock is pretty sad....

EDIT
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/...41/highlight,/
 

Last edited by tucsondude; Aug 27, 2011 at 01:12 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 06:08 AM
  #90  
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Hi Just new in here
ok will this work on my CBR 400 NC23
If I buy A suzuki gsxr Regulator rectifier.
My Regulator rectifier works
when got no lights on it ok but when lights on it goes down to 12.v
at 5.000 revs
let me know soon thanks
 

Last edited by wargamesuk; Aug 14, 2011 at 04:14 PM.
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