Most voltmeters called voltmeters should suffice. The voltages are within ranges that are reasonable for the cheapest voltmeters. The only thing you probably require a higher costing meter is measure higher current. For example, my meter was with $100 range, but only provide current measures up to 10A, which would not be good for this application because the fuse is 30A.

To add to that I would say it would be a good measure. If your meter will allow it, set the meter to read current, and make sure it covers a range above lowest inline fuse (i.e. 30A). Put in line with main (+) feed off battery. That is, remove (+) battery lead and connect meter with (-) to (+) batt., and (+) from meter to the (+)/red battery cable feeding to main fuse on bike harness. This is an in line series connection of the meter to the bikes main positive (+) line. This reading is a good one because you can know how much the current draw is from the bike. Although the 30A fuse is limiting/protecting the circuit from overdrawing, the current draw shouldn't be near this for prolonged periods of time. Each bike is different with regards to the amount of current draw, but the more draw the harder the charging system will be working. Some of these RRs are not likely to sustain the 30A draw for any length of time.

Cheers!

 

use a current shunt with a multimeter to protect it. measuring 10 amps on a mutimeter that is unfused and will break it once it exceeds that level. current shunts are placed in-line with whatever your trying to measure. and the other posts you measure voltage with the multimeter(voltmeter). theres a linear relationship between voltage and amperage. so if your mutimeter reads 12 mv its drawing 12 amps. check it out its not expensive and i have some cheapo multimeters for 10 bucks.

 

Thanks guys. In particular I'm trying to check my reg/rec which is a
third party unit I got from regulatorrectifier.com. Going by the manual page posted on the thread, the numbers I'm getting are confusing me a little. I set the meter on resistance and here's what I get:

yellow 1> yellow 2 - 6.18
yellow 1> yellow 3 - 5.67
yellow 1> green - 2.31
yellow 1> red/white - 19

yellow 2> yellow 3 - 5.55
yellow 2> green - 1.91
yellow 2> red/white - 18.84

yellow 3> green - 1.83
yellow 3> red/white - 2.2

green> red/white - 2.5

 

I've had a Kawasaki ZX-10 unit on my F2 for about 8,000 miles with zero issues. Its a mosfet type and barely even gets warm compared to other R/R's.

 

sooooo. i have a 94cbr 600f2. my question is what year of suzuki r/r should i get for this conversion, and whats the difference from the honda one is it just more reliable or cheaper or what???

 

From my post above, you'll see I suggest a rectifier form an 05-06 Kawi ZX-10. Difference is Mosfet vs. SCR shunt. Look those up for more info. I've never seen a Mosfet type fail, SCR types fail relatively regularly.

 

are those the same five wire setup?

 

Yes, 5 wires. But the harness isn't plug and play. You need to wire each one individually, or buy the correct connectors.

 

ok cool so if i go with the gsxr r/r i assume anything 2000 yr and up will work ok??

 

Thank you as my F3 was idling erratic and I had already fixed the fuel pump gremlin with new points. Installed GSXR 2003 regulator rectifier with the one connector and 5 wires ...soldered the wire ups and it is running like new again.

Many thanks!!!