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Regulator rectifier (R/R) problem solved

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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 01:08 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by zero1niner
Took your advice on this. I cut off the crimped quick connects, and replaced with soldered quick connects. I feel better about this now. Thanks for the nudge.



I read somewhere that the best thing to do was cap the redundant set of pos & neg leads, so I did. So far so good. At 2500rpm, I am seeing about 13.25 or so, and at 5000rpms, I am seeing about 13.9ish. Seems to be working well so far, but I havent done a long ride yet.



Yup. Keeping a eye on things for sure. Did just a mile or so trip today to test it out, and seems to be doing well so far. The RR was a little warm to the touch, but NOTHING like the stock RR. The wires and harness were also a bit warm, but substantially less than before the GSXR RR went on. It would burn the crap out of me after just a few minutes of running before.

Having other problems with the bike that I havent figured out yet (bogging down over 5K rpms), so I dont want to get too far from home until I figure that problem out.
Sounds like a jet problem mine is doing the same thing have you done a pipe or air filter?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 10:00 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by cwalsh600f2
Sounds like a jet problem mine is doing the same thing have you done a pipe or air filter?
I have a pipe and a K&N Filter.

Not sure exactly what I did, but I took the carbs off, cleaned them, and put everything back together, and it was running like crap. so today I tore everything off again, recleaned the carbs, took the petcock apart, reassembled everything, and it now is running great!

Dont know what the heck I did wrong the first time (or what I did right this time), but just happy its working now. I was just about to give up on this piece of crap if it didnt work this time...so lucky it worked out!
 
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 11:59 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by zero1niner
I have a pipe and a K&N Filter.

Not sure exactly what I did, but I took the carbs off, cleaned them, and put everything back together, and it was running like crap. so today I tore everything off again, recleaned the carbs, took the petcock apart, reassembled everything, and it now is running great!

Dont know what the heck I did wrong the first time (or what I did right this time), but just happy its working now. I was just about to give up on this piece of crap if it didnt work this time...so lucky it worked out!
Sorry to post this in here I am selling my bike and going into doing competition stereos someone offered 2300 for my bike (what i was asking for it) and going to use the $$ to order my new 15s and amp for my tahoe and more wood and whatnot for the box.
was fun and all just i dont know anything about bikes and got a great offer on my bike as i only paid 1400$ for it and put a new rr on it and a diode on the headlights because it was a wrecked bike and the people i got it from replaced the upper farring and headlights werent in the race farring they put on so they put aftermarket lights diode lets me have one on for low beams and high beams have both lites on.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 11:44 AM
  #54  
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so i was wondering if i have having a problem with my R/R because my battery seems to be fine but i cant start my bike without jumping it...i havent had any problems while riding it though like i have read some people having in this thread. Basically it started fine wednesday then after work it started like the battery was low and then thursday morning it wouldnt start at all without a jump...but after it started hard wednesday evening it didnt give me any trouble while riding, the idle was fine and it wasnt overheating or anything like some others seemed to be doing...so in another thread some people were suggesting it was my rr?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 11:33 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Ascheib50
so i was wondering if i have having a problem with my R/R because my battery seems to be fine but i cant start my bike without jumping it...i havent had any problems while riding it though like i have read some people having in this thread. Basically it started fine wednesday then after work it started like the battery was low and then thursday morning it wouldnt start at all without a jump...but after it started hard wednesday evening it didnt give me any trouble while riding, the idle was fine and it wasnt overheating or anything like some others seemed to be doing...so in another thread some people were suggesting it was my rr?
first step, go through the electrical tests outlined in the first couple posts of this thread. there are lots of factors that contribute and interact with each other so it's best to test everything. if the r/r is taking a dump you shouldn't be able to sustain riding. how long have your trips been? when my r/r first crapped out i had pretty much the same behavior as you when riding around the city. i could still pop start it and it ran fine but wouldn't start back up with the starter. longer duration trips are when the ridability issues present themselves as the r/r overheats. it will happen sooner and sooner as it worsens and could ruin other components. have you been charging the battery at all in between or just jumping it in the morning?

honestly, the first step with any of these electrical problems should be to do the tests outlined in the beginning of the thread. most of the time you will find your issue. if not, then post up.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 05:14 PM
  #56  
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ive actually avoiding riding it since i first noticed it acting funny. Ive only jumped it to test the voltage on the battery but i havent been out riding it since then. I plan to run through that troubleshooting flow chart tonight to see what i come up with. It definitely will not start on its own though and i have charged the battery all the way too.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 05:24 AM
  #57  
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Don't want to be a jerk somehow but this write up needs updating. It was very helpful but none of the links are still active.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 12:58 PM
  #58  
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So I just installed my new GSX-R 600 R/R today on my '92 F2, and it's seems to work fine so far. I haven't taken the bike out yet though, as I have a question.

When I put my voltmeter on battery terminals at idle, I'm reading around 14.7V. At 5000RPM it drops to 14.15V. It still falls within the parameters of a properly functioning charging system according to this chart

http://www.offwidth.co.uk/bike/gener...lt_finding.pdf

...but it seems counter-intuitive to me for the voltage to drop when engine RPMs are increased. Am I just being paranoid, or is something still not quite right? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #59  
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I put the gsxr1000 r/r on my f2 about a month ago and haven't had a dead battery since.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 10:55 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by zero1niner
Took your advice on this. I cut off the crimped quick connects, and replaced with soldered quick connects. I feel better about this now. Thanks for the nudge.



I read somewhere that the best thing to do was cap the redundant set of pos & neg leads, so I did. So far so good. At 2500rpm, I am seeing about 13.25 or so, and at 5000rpms, I am seeing about 13.9ish. Seems to be working well so far, but I havent done a long ride yet.



Yup. Keeping a eye on things for sure. Did just a mile or so trip today to test it out, and seems to be doing well so far. The RR was a little warm to the touch, but NOTHING like the stock RR. The wires and harness were also a bit warm, but substantially less than before the GSXR RR went on. It would burn the crap out of me after just a few minutes of running before.

Having other problems with the bike that I havent figured out yet (bogging down over 5K rpms), so I dont want to get too far from home until I figure that problem out.
I just finished successful troubleshooting of 99/900RR and it turned out to be an intermittent quick-connect at the CDI. Quick-connects should be considered for emergency use ONLY and will come back to haunt you if you don't go back and properly solder & insulate connections. And by insulate I also refer to the practice of ensuring proper buffering of any wiring against chaffing on any surfaces causing potential insulation breech, and using dialectic grease to keep moisture out of connection points. The reason moisture becomes a problem is because the smallest moisture causes corrosion. The finest corrosion between 2 points in a high-voltage, high-current circuit cause resistance which causes a higher current draw through the circuit along with arcing at the corroded points, which creates heat, which eventually can cause total system melt-down/failure and/or FIRE! So, please get smart and diligent about your electrical systems.
 
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