Hi all. I've been riding my F2 a a bunch harder, and I've recently been running into clearance issues. The bike is sprung for my weight, Race sag is at 28mm front and 30mm rear with ~5mm sticktion front and back. That's good! I've got a decently valved F3 front end on the bike and the ride height is stock front and rear. However, I keep scraping pegs around corners when chasing my friends on newer open class bikes. The rear shock is definitely the worst suspension component on the bike, it's an F3 unit with no internal adjustment.

What have y'all put on the rear of you're old F2s? I want to raise the rear a touch for clearance and turn in ease, and it'd be nice to gain adjustable rear ride height. F2/F3 have 292mm shocks. What is the length of an F4/F4i unit? Are they any better? I know 03-06 600RRs are 313mm, although jacking up the rear 21mm is a huge geometry change. 99-02 R6 units are 305mm which seems nicer. Unfortuately, both those are piggyback resevoir, do those work on F2s? 95-99 CBR900RRs have ~305mm length and remote resevoir. Is the valveing on any of these guys significantly better than F3 units? Or could I valve and shim a F3 unit? I don't want to get a remote resevoir aftermarket guy like a penske 8987 cause it's worth more than my bike...

...unless I could find one cheap. I know there's a lot there, but I want more clearance and better rear rebound/compression damping. I can't keep the power down as well as I want outta corner exit. Thanks guys

 

This is why I just sold my F2. You have 2 good choices... get an aftermarket shock or get a new bike. If you are tracking the bike, there is no point trying to make another bikes OEM shock fit your F2, you will out ride that soon as well. OEM suspension is made for the flexibility of the street and its varying riders.

If you are gonna track an F2 seriously, get serious suspension. I am not sure what will fit with little modification in an F2, but its just not worth the effort in my opinion.

 

Now that you have an F2 dissevered you should stop posting incorrect **** here dude



First off, you can make or buy rearsets that put your feet up and back. That will incresae clearance of course as your foot pegs are further off the ground. Rearset adapter plates that allow you to position your rearsets up and back are pretty easy for any machine shop to make up for you, and it won't cost you more than $100.

Second off, you can get an F4i rear shock. This adds height to the rear and makes it a real aggressive turning bike. It doesn't make the bike too hyper per my experience with having one in my bike, but I swapped it out as I found the ride position too aggressive for my morning commutes to and from work. Hanging off the bike was fine, but just farting around in traffic was killer.

Third off, you can hit a machine shop for a shorter link in your suspension, which in turn increases ride height (longer link = shorter height, it's inverse). This should run you more than $65 for some local machine shop to quickly churn out a properly sized piece.

Lastly, there is the aftermarket rear shock option. I went this way and purchased a Fox racing rear shock and got it re-sprung and valved for my weight. They also feature adjustable ride height, so I was able to raise the rear a half inch to get some slightly more aggressive turning along with a smidge of clearance.


For all out trackability, get the custom rear set plate, and get the fox racing setup.




Now, were you starting with a bone stock F2, I'd tell you it was money poorly spent and better invested in a more modern bike. However, you're pretty much at the finishing line for overhauling the suspension it sounds like.

 

Now that I have an F2? I think you mean don't have. And wtf does not owning an F2 anymore have to do with me owning one for 9 years? Not to mention, what exactly is incorrect?

I talked to many people who race pro about my best options for suspension, and most agreed that the best bet for an F2 is just to go aftermarket and get it sprung and set up for your weight. Wasting time machining crap just for an OEM shock is never worth it unless you plan on being slow for the rest of your life.

I am just relaying the info. If they are wrong, by all means, go pro and show them. Though, I think the only thing you could beat them at is running your mouth off. You sure are good at that.

 

Seriously dude, you're giving out bad info. There's plenty of people who know what they're talking about so we're good now. Go linger elsewhere

 

Well I guess this is controversial! I know the F2/F3 shock isn't that good, but I also know geometry and springs come before damping. I'm not tracking the bike, at least not yet. A shock off a different bike with a spring will cost like $150-200 or so, whereas the cheapest aftermarket ones I've seen are over $400 w/o spring, $500 with. I know . I meant more about these more modern shocks. I know the 600RR and the R6 are pretty decent shocks, and with valving I'm sure they'd be pretty good. I mean, I know the fox was a good unit but it's 20 years old now. I'm sure every almost every real sportbike made in the last 5 years has shocks about as good as that one or better, especially with some valving. I'd like the Fox, I know there are much better aftermarket shocks now, like that Penske 8987 I put up. I guess the f4i is not a good choice, it's probably too long for commuting.

 

It's just too aggressive for commuting, and my lower back didn't take well to the riding position.

The fox shock, while old, was pretty competitive up until the much newer technologies with other factors for adjustability. Most of the newer shocks will not bolt directly across as well.

The penske shocks are an option, but if you can find one spring and valved for your weight for just $500 you should share that link, because last I was aware Penske shocks start at $800+.

 

You are a real ***** you know that? I think you are just too dumb to realize that half of what you told this guy is the same thing I told him. You only added options of machining links and swapping in new model shocks, which I also said was an option. I just don't think it is a good option. If you don't like my opinion, state why, don't be an *******.

This is what.. the 3rd or 4th time now your retard *** has failed at simple reading comprehension. Did you make it passed 6th grade?

 

In preparation for your inability to count, I clearly labeled all the options I presented that you glossed over. First, second, and third. That's 1, 2 and 3

 

First off, I want to thank you both for your suggestions and I have to investigate them in more detail. However, I understand you guys hate each other but I'm just looking for some honest answers and some tips from others who have pushed their F2s or F3s to the point of overwhelming the weak *** rear suspension and then solved that problem. If y'all want to continue your catfight, be considerate and take it to email.