not sure what its called but basically i'm still dealing with the rattle from hell on this effin bike. I couldn't get a spark plug socket on the 1st plug and being in its awesome position i could hardly see why. So i used my iphone to take le picture

Lookin on le iphone screen that to me looks like a busted cylinder wall. (or atleast it did) so i'm like *** start ripping apart the motor and get both cams up and out of the motor all the bolts except for the 9mm hex bolts holding the cylinder to the block and then i'm like hmmm lets use a digital camera and take le look





Fuxin apple............

Anyways, i said f this and went home leaving the motor half way torn apart and now i'm going to get some needle nose pliers. So should i go pick up a 9mm hex socket and completely pull the head off in order to check everything out and see if something else was causing the death rattle or was the death rattle coming from the spark plug cap some how jumping off of the plug and out from under the wire so fast that the wire popped off and then back on so i couldn't notice it running on 3 cylinders. Orrrrr my bike runs so ****ty anyways it probably always runs off 3 cylinders and the wire was never really on to begin with.

Next, how do i reset the timing on this bike with the cams completly out... I know it says set the hash where it says top on the block but my block says nothing... yay go me!! help pl0x!!!!

 

The piece inside that is preventing you from getting the plug socket on is the screw on tip to the spark plug. Why its in there I couldn't tell you. That would for sure keep the coil wire from clipping on the the plug properly & prevent you from running on all 4. Stick a magnet in there & take it out. Once you get the tip out you can pull the plug. Do a compression & leak down before you start tearing the engine down. Lets start simple first. The head bolts are 9mm in diameter & have a 12mm head on them.

To reset the timing you will need to pull the right side plug off (17mm), & line the "T" up with the notch in the circle. Once that is done you can move on to the cam part. The cam gears have "IN" "EX" stamped on them with little lines under the letters. Line them up with the top part of the head. The #1 lobes at this time should be pointing away from each other. Put your cam caps back on & tighten them down evenly. You don't want to tighten one side down all the way. Bring each cap down evenly. Once the caps are tightened to the proper torque (9 lb-ft) install the cam chain tensioner & rotate the engine by hand, not the starter yet, & recheck your timing. If your marks line up again, your good to go. Hope this helps.

 

see its all good but i don't have markings on the side of the motor, i already have that plug off theres just nothing there like its been machined off

 

Hmmm... Trying to think here. You have to find TDC (top dead center) in order to properly time the cams. You cam use a degree wheel & a positive piston stop. Its a bit complicated. Not too many people know how to use them though.

 

ya i just used a pencil..... anyone who ends up knowing anything about motors will understand. im just sick of these forums being nothing but sticker panzies

 

for reference, the timing marks should have been on your pulse generator rotor (I saw your pic in the other thread). Those stamped in indicators line up with the small notch in the pulse gen cover (just left of the the 12:00 position in your pic)

The deal here is same thing I found with mine - you've got an aftermarket pulse rotor in your bike - since timing is actually fixed on our bikes, the pulse rotor itself has to be swapped out to advance or retard the timing. If the bike is properly timed before the swap. it can't get screwed up, cause the pulse rotors are keyed to fit the crankshaft in only one position. Would be nice if the prior owner would have at least scored an index mark in for you. I'm hoping you make a marking of your own once you did find TDC?

Typically people will bump their timing a degree or 2 with these.

 

It hasn't been machined off, it has been replaced as stated. From your other pic it looks like the notch on the lower right side is the one that needs to be lined up just to the right of 12 o'clock. Using a pencil will get you in the ball park but there is a few degrees of crankshaft rotation before & after top dead center where the piston is stationary but the crank moves. You can get it close with a pencil in the plug hole, but need to be precise when it comes to cam timing. If it was me I would try lining the notch up & see where the #1 piston is at.

 

ah you 2 my friends are helpful as always. Adrenalin i think i read a thread by you earlier and you had the same rotor as I. So your saying that people use these just to advance or retard the timing? What would be the point of this on a stock bike? I'm currently replacing almost every crack job mod the po but on and its such a headache