F2 Tech Tech Subsection (for any mechanical, repair, and DIY threads)

Mechanical Spring Seat-Release

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 7, 2010 | 08:38 AM
  #1  
berga's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Troy, NY
Default Mechanical Spring Seat-Release

Hi guys, here's my version of a mechanical spring-loaded seat release. I used the same basic idea as others who I've seen on Youtube. Here's the basic gist.

There is unfortunately some cutting involved. I did it with a $2.99 utility knife; you certainly don't need a Dremel tool. You're cutting off the two flat plastic areas around the hold-down bolt (see picture). It sucks to have to cut away stock plastic, but your spring-release will be far more useful than the underbody plastic ever was.

I used 7/32" allen wrenches. One Youtuber used aluminum rod, which I also tried but had poor success. The aluminum was too soft and weak and would get jammed trying to pull the rods in and out. Also it would gall on the steel bolt holes. The allen wrenches are a better choice because they're extremely hard and simply slide on any surface.

Use stiff springs. My springs are just about on the edge of what I'm strong enough to compress frequently, so maybe mine are even too strong. But stiff springs will really make the process of installing the seat easy because as soon as the seat is in the right area, the pins will be forced into place. In fact, with my stiff springs I hear a very audible "click" when the holes align and the pins extend.

I used milled aluminum for my pin alignment blocks. But if you don't have access to a mill, as most people probably don't, you can very simply use bent steel brackets. I recommend buying maybe .1-.125" thick sheet steel and cutting it to maybe a .75"x1.5" rectangle. Drill two holes and use a vise to bend in a 90 degree angle. I also tapped my block 1/4-20 and use a socket head cap screw from the bottom, but you could use a bolt and nut of course.

Overall it took me quite a few tries of trial and error to establish the correct sizing for everything. Hopefully you can use my pictures to minimize some of that error. All-in-all -- this is a really useful modification. And it works as it's supposed to!





 

Last edited by berga; May 7, 2010 at 09:35 AM.
Reply
Old May 7, 2010 | 10:57 AM
  #2  
halffast1g's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 524
Likes: 0
Default

thats a cool idea
 
Reply
Old May 26, 2010 | 08:08 PM
  #3  
adrenalnjunky's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,753
Likes: 3
From: West Monroe,Louisiana
Default

Awesome - thanks, trips to the hardware store coming up. Previous owner installed an undertail, so I don't have the stock plastic in the way - although I would certainly rather have a storage compartment under there to keep insurance card/registartion and inspection card.

Oh - where'd you source your springs? Any particular hardware store or section of the store?
 
Reply
Old May 27, 2010 | 03:29 AM
  #4  
Viking's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 192
Likes: 1
From: Norway
Default

Nice to see someone copy my allen key trick.
Nice work!

[youtube]PbQ7G0jVccY[/youtube]
 
Reply
Old May 27, 2010 | 10:07 PM
  #5  
bobmilkman's Avatar
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Default

This is a great idea! I'm looking forward to doing this on my F3, along with some sort of undertail compartment. I think might just weld on a little bracket to the frame - that seems sturdier. I'll post back when I get around to doing this
 
Reply
Old Jun 7, 2010 | 04:33 PM
  #6  
berga's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Troy, NY
Default

Ahh that was yours Viking! I started with aluminum rod but it wasn't up to the job. I especially liked your aluminum box! Very nice work.

The springs are from the local hardware store. They had two bins of drawers to choose from... I just picked the best-seeming ones I could find. I do emphasize a fairly stiff spring, though.
 
Reply
Old Jun 19, 2010 | 11:19 PM
  #7  
bobmilkman's Avatar
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Default

Ok I made my seat release today. My bike had an undertail already, so I didn't need to cut.
Still needs a little tweaking - probably stronger springs would help. Also, the allen wrench is smaller than the bolt was, and allows the seat to rattle around a bit. Anyone found a good fix to that?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RNCv12pLzM
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2010 | 09:38 PM
  #8  
pt40fathoms's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Manitoba Canada
Default

AWESOME! I will mod my seats this weekend. Thanks for the photos and videos guys.

P
 
Reply
Old Feb 13, 2011 | 11:10 PM
  #9  
bwaters932's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Default

Are the pieces that attach to the allen wrench using the set screw also come from the hardware store?
Bret
 
Reply
Old Feb 14, 2011 | 09:03 AM
  #10  
adrenalnjunky's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,753
Likes: 3
From: West Monroe,Louisiana
Default

Yep - I found everything at my local tru-value hardware store. I can't guarantee that someplace like a Lowe's is going to have everything.
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
seandcontracting
CBR 600F
15
Oct 28, 2014 12:45 AM
daddywilson
CBR 600F3
9
Jul 13, 2012 12:32 PM
Viking
CBR 600F2
21
Aug 11, 2011 07:21 PM
darkyuy
CBR 600F3
9
Jun 28, 2009 11:32 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:20 PM.