Mechanical Spring Seat-Release
#1
Mechanical Spring Seat-Release
Hi guys, here's my version of a mechanical spring-loaded seat release. I used the same basic idea as others who I've seen on Youtube. Here's the basic gist.
There is unfortunately some cutting involved. I did it with a $2.99 utility knife; you certainly don't need a Dremel tool. You're cutting off the two flat plastic areas around the hold-down bolt (see picture). It sucks to have to cut away stock plastic, but your spring-release will be far more useful than the underbody plastic ever was.
I used 7/32" allen wrenches. One Youtuber used aluminum rod, which I also tried but had poor success. The aluminum was too soft and weak and would get jammed trying to pull the rods in and out. Also it would gall on the steel bolt holes. The allen wrenches are a better choice because they're extremely hard and simply slide on any surface.
Use stiff springs. My springs are just about on the edge of what I'm strong enough to compress frequently, so maybe mine are even too strong. But stiff springs will really make the process of installing the seat easy because as soon as the seat is in the right area, the pins will be forced into place. In fact, with my stiff springs I hear a very audible "click" when the holes align and the pins extend.
I used milled aluminum for my pin alignment blocks. But if you don't have access to a mill, as most people probably don't, you can very simply use bent steel brackets. I recommend buying maybe .1-.125" thick sheet steel and cutting it to maybe a .75"x1.5" rectangle. Drill two holes and use a vise to bend in a 90 degree angle. I also tapped my block 1/4-20 and use a socket head cap screw from the bottom, but you could use a bolt and nut of course.
Overall it took me quite a few tries of trial and error to establish the correct sizing for everything. Hopefully you can use my pictures to minimize some of that error. All-in-all -- this is a really useful modification. And it works as it's supposed to!
There is unfortunately some cutting involved. I did it with a $2.99 utility knife; you certainly don't need a Dremel tool. You're cutting off the two flat plastic areas around the hold-down bolt (see picture). It sucks to have to cut away stock plastic, but your spring-release will be far more useful than the underbody plastic ever was.
I used 7/32" allen wrenches. One Youtuber used aluminum rod, which I also tried but had poor success. The aluminum was too soft and weak and would get jammed trying to pull the rods in and out. Also it would gall on the steel bolt holes. The allen wrenches are a better choice because they're extremely hard and simply slide on any surface.
Use stiff springs. My springs are just about on the edge of what I'm strong enough to compress frequently, so maybe mine are even too strong. But stiff springs will really make the process of installing the seat easy because as soon as the seat is in the right area, the pins will be forced into place. In fact, with my stiff springs I hear a very audible "click" when the holes align and the pins extend.
I used milled aluminum for my pin alignment blocks. But if you don't have access to a mill, as most people probably don't, you can very simply use bent steel brackets. I recommend buying maybe .1-.125" thick sheet steel and cutting it to maybe a .75"x1.5" rectangle. Drill two holes and use a vise to bend in a 90 degree angle. I also tapped my block 1/4-20 and use a socket head cap screw from the bottom, but you could use a bolt and nut of course.
Overall it took me quite a few tries of trial and error to establish the correct sizing for everything. Hopefully you can use my pictures to minimize some of that error. All-in-all -- this is a really useful modification. And it works as it's supposed to!
Last edited by berga; 05-07-2010 at 09:35 AM.
#3
Awesome - thanks, trips to the hardware store coming up. Previous owner installed an undertail, so I don't have the stock plastic in the way - although I would certainly rather have a storage compartment under there to keep insurance card/registartion and inspection card.
Oh - where'd you source your springs? Any particular hardware store or section of the store?
Oh - where'd you source your springs? Any particular hardware store or section of the store?
#5
#6
Ahh that was yours Viking! I started with aluminum rod but it wasn't up to the job. I especially liked your aluminum box! Very nice work.
The springs are from the local hardware store. They had two bins of drawers to choose from... I just picked the best-seeming ones I could find. I do emphasize a fairly stiff spring, though.
The springs are from the local hardware store. They had two bins of drawers to choose from... I just picked the best-seeming ones I could find. I do emphasize a fairly stiff spring, though.
#7
Ok I made my seat release today. My bike had an undertail already, so I didn't need to cut.
Still needs a little tweaking - probably stronger springs would help. Also, the allen wrench is smaller than the bolt was, and allows the seat to rattle around a bit. Anyone found a good fix to that?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RNCv12pLzM
Still needs a little tweaking - probably stronger springs would help. Also, the allen wrench is smaller than the bolt was, and allows the seat to rattle around a bit. Anyone found a good fix to that?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RNCv12pLzM
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1991, 600, capartment, cbr, compartment, f2, f3, honda, loaded, mechanical, motorcycle, open, release, rod, seat, spring