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Keep failing emissions, help!

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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 11:07 PM
  #11  
halffast1g's Avatar
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bike ran like complete azzhole today. Usually when I start the bike cold, with the choke on, it will rev to around 4000. Today the rpms just kept climbing and climbing with the choke on full, so I had to keep decreasing the amount of choke to keep the rpms down.

Maybe the bike is running leaner and leaner. Should I throw some seafoam into the tank before I swap the plugs and stuff?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 12:08 AM
  #12  
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The bike does run cruddy when it's cold, that's just how it goes, espescially if it's been rejetted and the weather outside is funky.

Having to adjust the idle, kinda funky. It should start with choke in, and then require a while to get up to 3-4k, unless it's been run recently (within 4 hours). Let it run for a while with the choke and once it hits 3-4k, take the choke off and it should be fine without having to chase the idle.

Sure try seafoam in the tank, doubt it'll do anything. I'm curious if that will show up on the DEQ testing stuff...
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 10:39 AM
  #13  
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At operating temp today, my idle was 3000, then a few minutes later 4000. I turned the little idle adjustment **** and brought it back down to 1500. Got to my destination, the idle was 2500. I definitely need to clean my carbs and throw in some new spark plugs.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 10:27 AM
  #14  
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When I first got my f2 i noticed this would happen to me. I checked my carb boots (rubber rings that attach them to the head) and the synch vacuum hose hookups on the intake ports. I found small leaks and when I fixed them i wound the idle adjustment all the way out and tuned it inwards until I achieved the optimal idle. hope this helps you.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 10:47 AM
  #15  
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im either going to tear the bike apart soon or have somebody clean the carbs or something
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 10:42 PM
  #16  
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Your idle shouldn't be walking everywhere like that. Sounds like intake leak for sure. Most deviation I ever get is about 500 RPM from start to my destinations. (not counting idle-up with the choke on at the beginning)

For the record, The act of "re-jetting" does include the exchange of pilot jets if necessary to obtain proper fuel mixture. Re-jetting is the act of exchanging the brass fuel metering orfices, regardless of which fueling circuit they are responsible for, in an effort to reach the closest-to-optimal fuel mixture. Pilot screw adjustment also is tossed into the act of re-jetting by most who speak of it, but all it really is is a fine adjustment of the flow allowed by a given size of pilot jet, not a physical replacement of parts inside the carburetor.
 
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