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How do I increase power

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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 11:58 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by jeffjones
If your not looking for top end power just more acceleration drop a tooth in the front and add a couple in the back.
+1 thats prolly the best noticeable mod you could do
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 03:14 PM
  #12  
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+1 in the rear. good to know i am probably going to have to replace the chain and sprockets sometime soon
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 04:41 PM
  #13  
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i dropped one in the front and added two in the back on my 90 katana, and it would lift the front end up in first no problem, thats an underpowered overweight bike too, agree with the rest change ratio a lil for instant and cheap results
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 04:50 PM
  #14  
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not trying to thread jack, but isnt changing sprocket size pretty rough on the engine? if so, i dont know if that is the best idea for a 20 yr old f2...
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 05:11 PM
  #15  
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yes i do not want to mess up my engine. not a thread jack good question that i would like to know the answer
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:12 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by baxter1
not trying to thread jack, but isnt changing sprocket size pretty rough on the engine? if so, i dont know if that is the best idea for a 20 yr old f2...
i would think it would be more wear n tear on your trans before it would hurt your engine, unless you changed ratio's so much so that you were always in the redline, if you went for more top end, it would be a little easier on your trans, more low end just the opposite. There could be more on this im missing tho, any other knowledge is certainly warranted.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 09:07 PM
  #17  
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I went -1,+2 on my sprockets. Also I went with a 520 setup. It was noticeably lighter than the stock stuff = less rotating mass. The guy who owns the bike shop assured me that 520 would be the best way to go. He said it will still be long lasting as long as im not a clutch wheelie freak.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 09:35 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by baxter1
not trying to thread jack, but isnt changing sprocket size pretty rough on the engine? if so, i dont know if that is the best idea for a 20 yr old f2...
It will cruise at a higher rpm on the highway while going the same speed if you go lower in front and/or higher in back. If you do a lot of highway riding it might be a consideration.

When I looked at the Gearing Commander website and saw that I'd lose over 18 mph off my top end if I went to a -1/+2 sprocket change I said no way. Mine will stay stock, as far as gearing goes.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 10:10 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RoadiJeff
It will cruise at a higher rpm on the highway while going the same speed if you go lower in front and/or higher in back. If you do a lot of highway riding it might be a consideration.

When I looked at the Gearing Commander website and saw that I'd lose over 18 mph off my top end if I went to a -1/+2 sprocket change I said no way. Mine will stay stock, as far as gearing goes.
More RPMs do not hurt these bikes, just your butt lol, and -1/+2 does not hurt your top speed on this particular bike.

Gearing commander would be correct if the stock F2 gearing had the torque to actually get you into the redline, however it does not. -1/+2 gearing may reduce theoretical top speed, but when wind resistance comes into play, it gives you the torque to push through it and actually get to red line thus making full use of your RPM range and giving you a similar top speed in the end.
 

Last edited by Dissevered; Mar 24, 2011 at 10:13 PM.
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 10:12 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by (951) Baby Shortee
I went -1,+2 on my sprockets. Also I went with a 520 setup. It was noticeably lighter than the stock stuff = less rotating mass. The guy who owns the bike shop assured me that 520 would be the best way to go. He said it will still be long lasting as long as im not a clutch wheelie freak.
He lied to you. Smaller chains do not last as long, ever. If that were so, they would use tiny bicycle chains instead to save money and weight. :P
 
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