Wow. ok, I dont think you need to go through the expense of getting new carbs just yet. I will however strongly urge you to look into new pilot jets. Those are boogered bad. When you go to clean the carbs, gently use a bolt extractor. It looks like a drill bit with the actual teeth going wrong way round. Basically it bites into the screw and turns it a you take it out. When you replace them make sure to put the spring washer and oring back. Alot of times those orings are missing and believe me, it is a big headache trying to tune it with the oring gone as that causes a pretty substantial air leak.
the main one that concerns me is the carb on the right. Not sure how good a seal you will get with it tore up like that. how far down is it broke off? The housing that is

 

Schnikeys!! Those fuel screws are... well... SCREWED!!! That is unbelievable! I expected the heads to be a little chipped/rounded but those are butchered!!

Some of those are so far gone, I don't think there's hope of using a screw extractor - at the size you would need to use, they're just not strong enough, and usually snap off, not to mention, you don't really have much left to get a good hole started in initially. Just below the head, those screws taper off quickly, and on at least three of those, you've got no head left! Are the threads in the shaft damaged?

Man, that really sucks, but anyway, you've got nothing to lose with trying to get 'em out... hopefully you can find a cheap used set of carbs, if these can't be salvaged!

 

you were not kidding about those pilot screws..looks like cujo was trying to adjust them... i just did one for a friend but it was not nearly as bad as that.. and he only had one that was banged up... im thinking jnsracing is right they do look to far gone but give it a shot... i think your best shot of getting them out if there is a shot at all is like gtcole said use a bolt extractor or a reverse drill bit also may work good as well... good luck...

 

well you cant see in the picture but to me it actually looks like someone tried a screw extractor already and that is part of the problem. I think they used too large of a screw extractor and it left a large divot in the tip of each screw so idk if I will be able to get one in there now. There are threads, but obviously that one to the right is completely messed up and idk if i could get another screw in after i get it out (if i can even get it out). At this point I think I will just ride the bike until it comes too out of tune and pick up some new carbs. I could get the screws out by completely drilling them out, or super glue and a little screw driver or something similar. i have done similar things in the past. I just do not know where i could get new ones.

1) where would i even find new screws? i have been looking and cant find jack...

2) Any opinions on the spark plugs?

 

Well, you can't mess em up anymore then they already are lol. As for the screws, check jetsrus.com or ron ayers. Not sure how much they would run. Keep your eye out for a set of carbs. I personally havent bought carbs, but I have seen them and they are a bit pricey. But you may have no alternative unfortunately.

 

If someone has already failed with a screw extractor, then I'm doubting super glue would hold up - I'm thinking you're best bet would be to attempt to drill them out - they are soft metal, so it shouldn't be too difficult, but the threads they seat in are also soft metal (aluminum), so the key will be drilling very carefully!

16016-MV9-730 is the part number, and I believe it includes the spring and washer, but I'm not certain about the little O-Ring. Since the O-Ring is at the bottom of the shaft the screw resides in, the ones you have in there will probably be safe from your drilling, since you don't have much thread portion left to drill through on three of those anyway!!
Anyway, there are many online OEM parts distributors, RonAyers.com being one of them, as gtcole mentioned. If it were me, I would just get them from the dealer - I get all my OEM items from my dealer - I just look up what I need on an online parts fiche, like on RonAyers.com, and request the part from my dealer, using the part number... they usually come in in about 2 or 3 days, and they're usually a little cheaper than the cost I find online, and, then you're not wasting any money on shipping.

I wouldn't worry about reading the plugs until you get to the point where you're trying to make fueling adjustments, which you can't currently accomplish on the pilot circuit, of course - for what it's worth, though, they do look as if things are running quite lean.

 

thanks to all of you guys! i am checking out ronayers and similar sites now. I do not really have a dealer that I can get parts from. There are a couple of non-brand-specific dealers around me but they charge 2-3 times as much as online stores because I am located very close to Philadelphia.

Thanks for the part number JNSRacing. I will try to locate the screws first and when i do then i will begin the extraction process.

gtcole I found a set of carbs online that is stripped of all jets and misc parts, but still contains the jet screws and they were asking something like $50 plus shipping. And i found a set of old carbs, but complete, for a 93 for $45 plus shipping. Should I hop on one of those deals before they run out?

 

That sounds like a steal to me. Of course, I believe jns would be better to suggest which way to go but a complete set of carbs for 45 is a lot cheaper then I have seen. If I'm not mistaken all f2 carbs are the same... Again though we will have to wait for jns or the like to chime in.

 

they are all the same but if they came of a cali spec bike then there might be added vent lines for the evap system and the stock jetting is different.. other then that they are the same and will work on any F2 and for 45.00 thats a great price..

 

I have a Calif bike and there are no extra fitting on the carbs. They just route vents through valves to a cannister when stopped, or to the carbs when running. Get the carbs use the float bowls. Cheap Cycle parts online has the needles. Part #16016-MAS-670. $16.50 each, with screw, spring, washer, and o-ring.