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Goofy carb question.

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  #11  
Old 12-24-2011, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Project96
If you have the needles that look like nails, then you have stock needles. You will need to identify the needles & jets though.
I'll do that. Just gotta find that magnifying glass. ; ) I have the little D shaped socket that is needed to remove the pilot jet screws now so that won't be a problem. Several cans of carb cleaner from now I should have ready to rock carbs. I have new carb boots on the way too. I kinda messed up the old ones taking the carbs off twice now. Most of the little locating ridges on the ID of the boots where they go onto the head are sheared off so I thought it would be prudent to replace them. They were $40 from my bike shop.
 
  #12  
Old 12-25-2011, 02:17 PM
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Ok, needles and jets are as follows: Needles are J3WA with a .020" washer underneath. Main jets are 135 and pilots are 38S.

K&N air filter and Muzzy can are the only mods. I'm aware of.
 
  #13  
Old 12-27-2011, 02:30 PM
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Clean them up, put it back together let us know how it runs.
 
  #14  
Old 12-27-2011, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Project96
Clean them up, put it back together let us know how it runs.
Waiting on a call from the bike shop that my rubber carb boots are in then VArooom!
 
  #15  
Old 12-27-2011, 04:38 PM
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You'll be glad of the new boots, that detente you mentioned...also keeps the boot-clamps
from rolling as you try to fasten them, in that cramped little tunnel. Wipe them down
with some armor-all, inside and out, before you install them, too. leave hvy film on the
inside when you install tham as a bit of lube. That will help ease them back on.

Don't forget you will need to do a sync and then an idle adjust after all of the twiddleing
you've done. If you don't have the vacume guages and a right angle off-set driver for the
sync, it's time for a decision. Pay for the tools or pay for the labor. If you don't LOVE
working on bikes AND put a lot of miles on said bike(s), save your time for riding and
let somebody else have the chore.

I'm guessing, you're gonna be foolish enough, to want to do it all. If so, there are a
couple of really good threads on the method and the tools. Just do the research and
you'll do alright. If you need more, don't hesitate to ask.

Ern
 

Last edited by MadHattr059; 12-27-2011 at 04:40 PM.
  #16  
Old 12-27-2011, 11:02 PM
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Yeah, I have a decision to make. That pilot screw adjuster tool is $79 from the bike shop. I've already got the bit that goes in it. I've seen sync. gauges for reasonable prices. I have no idea what it would cost to have them do it. I'll ask for the Hell of it. I'd like to learn how to do it myself but we'll see how it goes. I'm bent on simply making it run for now and then I'll get serious about the rest of the bike. I have plenty to do before I can ride it anyway so it's not like I'm gonna jump on it with no seat and go kill myself. I hope!!
 
  #17  
Old 02-02-2012, 11:28 PM
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I replaced the boots, did another cleaning then a week later put new float needles in it. After trying to start it unsuccessfully I put the new plugs in it. The damned thing fired right up! It was spark plugs this whole time. Damn what a PITA!
 
  #18  
Old 02-03-2012, 12:03 PM
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good fix, another one of my issues was bad ignition coils and bad wires
 
  #19  
Old 02-03-2012, 01:00 PM
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One thing I noticed is that the boots are very difficult to get fully seated on the plugs. The boots go easily onto the old plugs but for some reason they are very hard to get on the new plugs. Imma try some dielectric grease on them to see if that helps. I'm excited now!
 
  #20  
Old 02-03-2012, 04:44 PM
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make sure your new plugs have the same looking end as the ones you pulled out. Some plugs have an push-on adapter that threads onto the end of the plug - but our spark plug wires aren't designed to have that adapter on the plug.
 


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