Originally Posted by Ls1Mx5
(Post 1245480)
I have the needles in the leanest position because with 140 mains with the clips in anything below the second position it would get have problems in the 5-7k range (too rich I believe). Now with the clips in the top position, the 5-7k range is perfect.
The thing that must be done, in order to get your carbs fully tuned, correctly, is to start with a good baseline setting for all circuits, and then go out and work on only the main jets first... resisting making changes to more than one circuit at a time can be difficult, but the only time you want to do this, is when you're setting your baseline. See the 1st point in the link below. CV Carb Tuning Procedures
Originally Posted by Ls1Mx5
(Post 1245480)
If my problem area is where the main jet comes on from the pilot jet overlap, cold my 40 pilots be causing this problem?
That said, with your setup, a size 40 pilot shouldn't be necessary.
Originally Posted by Ls1Mx5
(Post 1245480)
I'm going to try 142's, putting 38 mains back on, put one washer below the needle and see if that does anything. Yea I'll be more careful with the 15k reving, I usually try to shift at like 12.5 tops. I thought the stock rev limiter was set to 15.5k?
With your setup, this is what I would recommend - meaning, if this was my bike, this is what I would do. 1. Even with a very free-flowing exhaust, with an OEM air filter, I would start with 138 mains, here's why: let's say you start with 138, which no doubt, might be lean, and you go to 140 and it's much better, then you've still got your 142 and 145 sizes to try, and you'll know when you've nailed it, when it stops getting better with each up, and actually gets worse, telling you exactly where you should park it. In this scenario, if 140 was an improvement, but 142 starts to get doggy again, then you know 140 is your main. The more you go in any direction, the more you'll know which direction is correct! 2. Put your needles at the middle position, with the original shim in place. You might end up later raising or lowering this, but once you have your mains dialed in, that's the time to do that... try to ignore the mid-range until you know you've got your mains right. 3. Restore the 38 pilot, and set your fuel screws to 2 1/4 turns out - once again, try to ignore the idle/low RPM cruise issues, and popping on decel, until you get the above circuits set right.
Originally Posted by Ls1Mx5
(Post 1245480)
Thanks for the help guys
Edit: what are the benefits of 40 pilots? Check this link, which you might have seen before... if you follow it, you will do well, especially if you have the time and money to use a dyno to check your work, but if you're like most of us, that's out of your price range! :icon_neutral: CV Carb Tuning Procedures Bear in mind, on both of these links I posted, you can ignore the section about the float height, as the float tang on our Keihins is non-adjustable - as long as your floats aren't damaged, they height should be fine. Good luck! :icon_beerchug: |
Originally Posted by Ls1Mx5
(Post 1245494)
No its not, I'm guessing the absence of the heat shield will allow it to draw in more air?
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Thanks very much you guys have been real helpful. I don't have a heat shield but I'll try and find one.
One more question, can the difference between 38 and 40 pilots be completely canceled out by pilot screw adjustment? Because right now my idle/midrange is perfect. Will putting 38s in and screwing out the idle screws affect the 7-9k WOT operation? |
Another question, the instructions for the dynojet needles say that one of the carb slide holes should be filled. Mine aren't, why would dynojet require this?
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Originally Posted by Ls1Mx5
(Post 1245559)
Thanks very much you guys have been real helpful. I don't have a heat shield but I'll try and find one.
One more question, can the difference between 38 and 40 pilots be completely canceled out by pilot screw adjustment? Because right now my idle/midrange is perfect. Will putting 38s in and screwing out the idle screws affect the 7-9k WOT operation? |
Originally Posted by Ls1Mx5
(Post 1245561)
Another question, the instructions for the dynojet needles say that one of the carb slide holes should be filled. Mine aren't, why would dynojet require this?
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Originally Posted by squale147
(Post 1245608)
with dynojets stage 1 set they want you to fill in one of the slide holes and they give you springs as well and this adds up to changing the slide speed..
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Originally Posted by Ls1Mx5
(Post 1245617)
Why do they want that to change, you guys think I should glue the hole shut on each slide?
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