So to help a few with saving money and fixing their Regulator Rectifier(R/R) I have found, baught, and installed this R/R that I got on ebay for no more than 20$. It has a new heat-sink design that helps it with the over heating issues. You will need to do this ebay seach -Honda CBR600F2 Regulator Rectifier- you should get a picture that looks like this.

the price varies but it should be there. its a large Japanese stock item so you should be able to find them for pretty cheap. just be cautious of sellers and be sure to check their reviews.
I have installed mine and it has worked perfectly since and has fixed my electrical issues.BUT you need to know its the R/R that went bad. I will post a following thread showing you how to test it. for now this is mine on my bike.

When installing it you will need to do a few things. 1st you will need to remove the old regulator rectifier and scrap it.2nd you will need to remove all its mounting plates from the bike and be sure to sand it and the bikes surface to make sure you have a good connection between the two. 3rd you will need to put the plates back on and remove an extra screw that comes with the system.

I am pointing at a spot on the plate that has an extra screw that will need to be removed so the new R/R will mont flush to the mounting plate. 4th you will need to drill 1 new hole for the R/R's 2nd bolt hole.

you can use the original top hole for the mounting system it will work fine. but for the second you can see I drilled a new one. I put the new R/R on with the top bolt and then punched a mark through the second so I knew where to drill. 5th you will need to go to any local hardware store and buy a locking nut for the back of the second mounting bolt.

you will need this extra bolt because the manufactures sottered similar bolts to the back of the mounting plates so they could tighten the stock R/R. BUT because your using a new hole you will need this extra piece.(be sure to give yourself enough space to get a cresent wrench back on the locking nut without hitting the original nut)

Im pointing at the new locking nut, and the one to watch out for is that old one above it. Finally plug the wiring harness with a dialectric grease plug in the new R/R and bolt it on.

(larger pictures are found in my Regulator Rectifier album on my account)

 

Wiring Harness Test
1.remove your right-hand tail fairing
2.Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier 5-pin electrical connector
NOTE- when performing the following tests, connect the test probes between the R/R connector terminal pins on the wiring harness side of the connector, not on the R/R itself.
3. check the battery charge lead as follows
A. connect a volt-meter between the red/white(+) and green(-) wires
B.with the ignition switch off read the voltage indicated on the volt-meter. It should be 12.9volts or highter(battery voltage).
C.If the battery voltage is less than specified, check the red/white wire, between the R/R and starter relay, for damage.
D.disconnect the voltmeter leads.
4.check the ground line as follows
A.Switch an ohmmeter to Rx1 and zero the test leads.
B.Connect an ohmmeter between the green wire and a good engine ground.
C. the ohmmeter should show continuity.
D. if there is no continuity(high resistance) check the ground line for damage.
5.check the charge coil line as follows:
A.Switch an ohmmeter to Rx1 and zero the test leads.
B.Touch one ohmmeter lead to one yellow wire and the other lead to another yellow wire and then to the other. read the resistance on the ohmmeter after makeing each test connection.
C.The ohmmeter should read 0.1-1.0 ohms, (@20 degrees Celseous[68 degrees F]). A higher reading indicates an open circuit.
D.If the resistance reading is excessive, check for dirty or loose fitting terminals or damaged wires.
6.Recconnect the R/R electrical connector.
7.re-install tail fairing.


Regulator/Rectifier resistance test
You will be testing the R/R by setting your ohmmeter to xk ohms scale and/or x100 ohms scale. then you will cross test them based off this scale. If any of them are off at all then you will need to replace the R/R because it has gone bad. so to help you understand it, for instance when the diagram says 30-500, the 30 is a xk ohms reading and 500 is a x100 ohms reading. sooooo think of it like this ( xk/Ohms-x100/Ohms )

I know this picture is small but if you go to my profile album you can look at the larger photo in my R/R Regulator Rectifier Album. this testing is done only to your R/R and it must be removed from the motorcycle and the wiring harness. This testing is specific to the Honda CBR600F2.