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CBR starting issues

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  #11  
Old 05-10-2010, 04:16 PM
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nitrodude
if you have 5 pins on your R/R, you need a multimeter, if you already know which pins are from stator, use the multimeter to find positive and negative.

remember the R/R is a "Diode converter", try this.

- To verify the diodes you have to grab the RED CABLE of the TESTER and put it in each of the yellow ones of the regulator. The BLACK CABLE of the TESTER in one pin of the regulator.
- In each of three combinations the tester should give you continuity [or lead 0,5/0,6 in way diode of the tester, if you have continuity, that pin is the POSITIVE
now change the red cable on the black and viceverse, and verify the same thing. Now THERE SHOULDN'T BE CONTINUITY.

- To verify the diodes of below you have to grab now the BLACK CABLE of the TESTER and put it in each of the yellow ones of the regulator. THE RED CABLE of the TESTER in the other pin of the regulator.
- In each of three combinations the TESTER should have continuity(or 0.5/0.6 in way diode of the tester). if you have continuity that pin is the NEGATIVE.
then change the cables and verify you don't have continuity.

We only have readings in one way because the diode works like that.

Cris
 
  #12  
Old 05-10-2010, 06:52 PM
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ill b out in the garage tomarrow so i will check
 
  #13  
Old 05-10-2010, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cristopech12
nitrodude
if you have 5 pins on your R/R, you need a multimeter, if you already know which pins are from stator, use the multimeter to find positive and negative.

remember the R/R is a "Diode converter", try this.

- To verify the diodes you have to grab the RED CABLE of the TESTER and put it in each of the yellow ones of the regulator. The BLACK CABLE of the TESTER in one pin of the regulator.
- In each of three combinations the tester should give you continuity [or lead 0,5/0,6 in way diode of the tester, if you have continuity, that pin is the POSITIVE
now change the red cable on the black and viceverse, and verify the same thing. Now THERE SHOULDN'T BE CONTINUITY.

- To verify the diodes of below you have to grab now the BLACK CABLE of the TESTER and put it in each of the yellow ones of the regulator. THE RED CABLE of the TESTER in the other pin of the regulator.
- In each of three combinations the TESTER should have continuity(or 0.5/0.6 in way diode of the tester). if you have continuity that pin is the NEGATIVE.
then change the cables and verify you don't have continuity.

We only have readings in one way because the diode works like that.

Cris
Thanks for the useful info


Originally Posted by Michwolv60
ill b out in the garage tomarrow so i will check
Sounds good. Thanks
 
  #14  
Old 05-12-2010, 08:50 PM
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i looked at it tiday, i think it wont work. looks like i cut the wires to close to the connector. i can take a pic if you want.... maybe you could put new pins in the connector with longer wires
 
  #15  
Old 05-13-2010, 01:53 AM
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im courious as what fixes this for you because ive got the same problem with mine. please post any info that might help.
 
  #16  
Old 05-13-2010, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Michwolv60
i looked at it tiday, i think it wont work. looks like i cut the wires to close to the connector. i can take a pic if you want.... maybe you could put new pins in the connector with longer wires
If its possible to solder longer wires on whats left, then thats fine. If not, not too big of a deal.
Thanks for checking on it for me though

Originally Posted by Tomtuna1978
im courious as what fixes this for you because ive got the same problem with mine. please post any info that might help.
I'll update here as soon as i figure out whats going on and what helps/fixes this problem. Let me know if you find the solution before me.
 
  #17  
Old 05-20-2010, 03:16 PM
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my bike is the exact same story and I'm at the same place as you right now (cept I have a reg/rec)

it used to run, now it just sputters and backfires.
did you manage to get yours going again?
 
  #18  
Old 05-20-2010, 03:30 PM
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Well i did and i didnt. It still hard to start but not as hard.

What i did was put all my airbox back on (best i can with only a few screws) and that seemed to help a lot. It starts without taking me an hour of constant cranking, but still takes about 5 mins. Not as bad.

Also cleaned the spark plugs, Im sure changing them would help some more.

Pretty sure if i get the rest of the air box screws, new air filter, and new spark plugs it would start/run perfect.

We will see when i get the cash to get everything if that makes it work.
 
  #19  
Old 05-20-2010, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrodude
Well i did and i didnt. It still hard to start but not as hard.

What i did was put all my airbox back on (best i can with only a few screws) and that seemed to help a lot. It starts without taking me an hour of constant cranking, but still takes about 5 mins. Not as bad.

Also cleaned the spark plugs, Im sure changing them would help some more.

Pretty sure if i get the rest of the air box screws, new air filter, and new spark plugs it would start/run perfect.

We will see when i get the cash to get everything if that makes it work.
yeah, mine didn't come with the right lid (anybody want to trade an F3 lid+ramair for the proper F2 item?)
 
  #20  
Old 05-21-2010, 10:18 AM
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my r/r is good and all. but the thing mine is doing is the cranking for 1/2 hour befor it will start. here is what i have done .... ive replaced the plug wires,plugs, ive ohm checked the coils,ohm checked the crank sensor,checked for 12 v at the coils, checked to see if the coils are getting the ground signal, ive even taken all the connectors in the ignition system and cleened/checked them and put that connector stabalizer stuff on them, ive also been threw the carbs 3 times throughly myself (cleaned them made no adjustments)and had a pro go therw them 1 time(cleaned and set all idle mixture screws at 2 1/2 turns out), the 2nd time i went threw the carbs i noticed the choke did nothing so i cleaned the choke circuits and it sounded diff like it wanted to start, thats when i took them to the "pro", he told me that its in the ignition, when it starts it runs great ! it just takes a long time starting when cold !.... so here is what i did last night.... i checked all the ignition stuff 1 more time just to dubble check, got spark at each plug( good strong spark !), still no start cold ! .... then i spreyed brake cleen into the carbs as i cranked it (with the air box off, im shure it would start even faster with the air box on) and it fired rite up !!! ... so here is the project for today ... im gonna take the carbs back off and check that choke circuit one more time, and if its cleer of debris, im gonna drill out the orface 1 size bigger until it starts rite up ! im also thinking of turning the idle mixture screws out 1/2 turn until it starts rite up. .... what do you guys think ?
 
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