I bought a toggle push switch from walmart and am basically fed up with my starter/kill switch, has anyone done anything like this be4?

 

what do you mean starter/kill switch?

You talking about the run on/off or the push button for the starter?

If its the (red) run on/off, I would just bypass it and be done, cut the wires tie them together and there you go

 

okay if I did that would I just hook my toggle switch up in series then?

 

still not sure what your asking.... pick one of these and tell me what you wanna bypass


the RED on/off killswitch

the starter relay under your seat

or the starter push button on handle bar

 

I'm trying to bypass the starter push button and kill switch, I dont believe you can bypass the relay since its necessary to control the high amperage to the starter.

Anyways the reason I'm asking this, simply put, is because one day I went to start up my bike in my garage and the push button didn't work so I jumped the relay with two screwdrivers and it turned over but had no spark with the plugs grounded on the head.

So now most of the wiring harness is ripped apart (not literally of course).

 

Ok after reading your off topic post about being "intimidating" ill try to give some insight. First off are you going with a 3 position switch? To eliminate the kill switch and have the same switch control that and the start button would be tricky.... You would have to have atleast a 3 position switch or a second switch. Off would cut the entire system off (kill switch, no start function). The center position would have to be run and the upper most spot would have to engage the starter then come back to the center position in order to not destroy your starter/flywheel.....

My recommendation is to run 2 toggle switches. Although one would do the same exact job as the run/kill switch. If there is nothing wrong with the kill switch then let it be and use the toggle for a hidden start switch. I guess my question is why?!?!?!?!?!

 

randomly stopped working one day. did continuity tests on it checked out fine. shoot in the dark really.

 

Mine packed up (thought it was the switch turned out to be an open circuit somewhere in the yellow/red wire between the back of the instrument panel and the starter relay). I bypassed it by taking a power supply from the fusebox via a toggle switch straight to the (as you look at it from the RH side) back right contact (the one with the yellow/red wire to it) on the starter relay.

As a quick test just quickly touch a wire from the battery into the back of the aforementioned connector and see if the relay clicks, if it doesn't run a wire from the back LH connector (Green/red)to earth and retry touching the positive. ( I found the easiest way was to crimp a thin spade terminal to the end of the wire so I could just wodge it in alongside the OEM connector)

If the relay still doesn't click then it's the relay fubarred, presuming of course that the sidestand & neutral lights work as they're on a shared earth)

 

I just bought a new OEM switch and problem fixed.I tryed sodering the conection but it burned through the soder when I put a load on it from an exess of ressistance on that circuit. I even got a buddy from work who soders way better than I and got it to work.But the wire's got so hot that I decided to go with a brand new switch altogether.I just want to add that I tore the bike down to the last sproket trying to diagnos this issue...OMFG!!

 

that makes me feel better about replacing mine. Mines torn apart right now too i've just diagnosed the diode to be defective but im going to buy a neutral switch just in case (its says like neutral in every gear).

The relays good though. Had to disconnect it with hex keys then jump y/r (+) and g/r (+)terminal from bat ... finally got the effin thing to click god damnit

on the 20k scale i got .15 volts with the starter switch, doesn't go to b+ like it should when i press it just stays there. I was hoping it was something else since it had continuity but its prob fubared.

how much did you get yours for?