anyone know how-to swap instrument clusters?
#1
anyone know how-to swap instrument clusters?
So I've been looking into removing my stock headlight and changing out my cluster with something a little less cluttered but haven't ever seen anything about someone changing out their clusters for some aftermarket ones. Even the Chinese ones will do; I just want to change them out to upgrade the look of the bike from the driver's point of view as well as incorporate a few idiot lights in there such as a clock or even integrating a fuel level gauge or a gear indicator.
I know not all options are a feasible idea but it seems odd that there are so many people with custom F2s and no one mentions anything on this subject. (Or maybe I just can't search well enough)
either way thanks in advance for the input and I hope this leads me somewhere good.
I know not all options are a feasible idea but it seems odd that there are so many people with custom F2s and no one mentions anything on this subject. (Or maybe I just can't search well enough)
either way thanks in advance for the input and I hope this leads me somewhere good.
#2
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f-...n-tips-152756/
That`s for an F1 but it`s mostly the same. Fuel gauge would require you to have a sensor in the tank, which the bike doesn`t have as is. I suppose you could install one but you`d probly have to be able to weld a flange for it in the bottom to seal it.
Gear indicators are usually stand-alone components with switches at the shift pedal, not a part of a gauge cluster (although some might have)
Any aftermarket gauge will require a healthy amount of fiddling to make it work, one of the major problems is that the original F2 speedo is cable driven so you either have to fit a digitizer at the end of the cable to convert the mechanical signal to electric, swap in an electric speed sender from some other bike, or use a gauge that has a magnet/pickup setting like the Trailtech Vapor, which isn`t exactly a high-tech piece as is. Another problem is getting a clean noise free rev signal for the tach. These bikes have a wasted spark system which means on every stroke two cylinders are sparked but only one of them used. This means, from a gauge fitter standpoint, that you got to have a gauge that has a changeable cylinder count, and to get it to show correctly you need to set it for TWO cylinders not four.
The fitting in itself is pretty straightforward, but it is a heap of a job to do. The chinese gauges are pretty unreliable, they might work, or completely refuse to work no matter what depending on the position of the moon, last weeks lottery numbers and a few more abstract variables. I had my problems with a Koso unit as well so an expensive gauge is a guarantee for success not, however they do come with all of the sensors so you don`t have to play the guessing game with thermistor resistance values and such. Basically it boils down to what are you prepared to spend. The "good" units like Koso RX-2/ RX-2N, Motogadget Motoscope Pro etc set you back around 350 european, a Trailtech Vapor would be cheaper however it`s not as accurate and the idiot lights come in a bezel that`s sold separately and the light domes are so dark you can barely see the lights burning at daylight.
if you set about doing a swap I`ll do my best to guide you through it.
That`s for an F1 but it`s mostly the same. Fuel gauge would require you to have a sensor in the tank, which the bike doesn`t have as is. I suppose you could install one but you`d probly have to be able to weld a flange for it in the bottom to seal it.
Gear indicators are usually stand-alone components with switches at the shift pedal, not a part of a gauge cluster (although some might have)
Any aftermarket gauge will require a healthy amount of fiddling to make it work, one of the major problems is that the original F2 speedo is cable driven so you either have to fit a digitizer at the end of the cable to convert the mechanical signal to electric, swap in an electric speed sender from some other bike, or use a gauge that has a magnet/pickup setting like the Trailtech Vapor, which isn`t exactly a high-tech piece as is. Another problem is getting a clean noise free rev signal for the tach. These bikes have a wasted spark system which means on every stroke two cylinders are sparked but only one of them used. This means, from a gauge fitter standpoint, that you got to have a gauge that has a changeable cylinder count, and to get it to show correctly you need to set it for TWO cylinders not four.
The fitting in itself is pretty straightforward, but it is a heap of a job to do. The chinese gauges are pretty unreliable, they might work, or completely refuse to work no matter what depending on the position of the moon, last weeks lottery numbers and a few more abstract variables. I had my problems with a Koso unit as well so an expensive gauge is a guarantee for success not, however they do come with all of the sensors so you don`t have to play the guessing game with thermistor resistance values and such. Basically it boils down to what are you prepared to spend. The "good" units like Koso RX-2/ RX-2N, Motogadget Motoscope Pro etc set you back around 350 european, a Trailtech Vapor would be cheaper however it`s not as accurate and the idiot lights come in a bezel that`s sold separately and the light domes are so dark you can barely see the lights burning at daylight.
if you set about doing a swap I`ll do my best to guide you through it.
Last edited by Mattson; 12-01-2015 at 02:08 PM.
#3
oh i'm certainly determined to try it but unfortunately not any time soon. I know it's difficult and right now i'm really only beginning to research it to be ready for it whenever i get around to it. but i have more pressing issues with this bike that i'm trying to address on it (such as an oil leak in the oil pan, leaky gaskets, etc etc). I'm address all the mechanical before going over the aesthetics of the bike.
looking into it now though, i think i did good in researching it before diving into it blindly, i'm reading all the posts of the chinese ss182 digital speedo and man is it helpful, and confusing a bit for the amateur mechanic. but for weird ppl like me a challenge like this is great music to my hears
looking into it now though, i think i did good in researching it before diving into it blindly, i'm reading all the posts of the chinese ss182 digital speedo and man is it helpful, and confusing a bit for the amateur mechanic. but for weird ppl like me a challenge like this is great music to my hears
#4
I've changed my cluster twice, first to a cheap Chinese crappy one and then to a better looking Acewell 2853. I'll be happy to answer any questions about that. It's not really hard though, it's more a question of "cut and solder"... Or you could do it like I do: make your own connectors in between the aftermarket cluster and the wiring harness so it all becomes totally reversible but that takes even more cutting and stripping wires and soldering...
#5
Alright guys I'm back on board with this. I'm gonna start with the cheapo Chinese ones and then if it doesn't live up to it or if I fancy something else we'll go up from there. In the mean time, I'm looking into this one:
Motorcycle Odometer Tachometer Speedometer Gauge RPM 15000 Universal LCD Digital | eBay
Anyone up for a little Q&A w/ me? I'm about to order it soon and want to hope I got a little back up
Motorcycle Odometer Tachometer Speedometer Gauge RPM 15000 Universal LCD Digital | eBay
Anyone up for a little Q&A w/ me? I'm about to order it soon and want to hope I got a little back up
#6
cbr cluster swap out
With the cluster swap out for cbr/rr's, depending what year, your looking at pulling the front fairing assembly for most of them, & usually utube will get you there.
Once you got the fairing off, depending what model, there may be this or that which needs to be pulled, & then it's a few bolts, & unplug the main electrical connector
Then it will pop off. But then it's replacement will be the issue?, where they can be very expensive, because once these clusters came in a sealed one part unit,
& lets say the led read out is gone?, either unless your a wiz in this department & can fix it, which is a 1 in a 1000000 chance you are? or like most other punters,
you'll have to either get a good condition 2ed hand cluster, or if they are still making new one's? have to pay a lot of money to pick your self up one. "BUT" because you've
got a Honda, where these days Honda has put the same type of clusters on all their low priced motorbikes, which is a good thing because when there is a large production
put out there, after market repo's are soon to follow, where all you need to do is to go to any local honda dealer & have a look at their little grommet road bike, & look at the cluster
gauge, then go on line & look up bike clusters until you find the same looking type, ( which there's only one type that looks the same) where they are less than $40 delivered. & because they are
Honda Repo's they will fit straight into the mounts, with out ant cutting or drilling, & will plug straight into the electrical connector too, & the only drama you may come across may be the speedo?
which may take some time to correctly set, because no instructions come with the after market cluster. But "Hey" a cluster that fits & plugs straight into a RR for less than $40, compared
to Big $$ for a new factory one, or $200 to $300 for a crappy used one?? Note if your on a 600RR the max RPM read out on this after market cluster only reaches to 14000 but that's still not bad
where you'll just set the red 1000 before it should.
Once you got the fairing off, depending what model, there may be this or that which needs to be pulled, & then it's a few bolts, & unplug the main electrical connector
Then it will pop off. But then it's replacement will be the issue?, where they can be very expensive, because once these clusters came in a sealed one part unit,
& lets say the led read out is gone?, either unless your a wiz in this department & can fix it, which is a 1 in a 1000000 chance you are? or like most other punters,
you'll have to either get a good condition 2ed hand cluster, or if they are still making new one's? have to pay a lot of money to pick your self up one. "BUT" because you've
got a Honda, where these days Honda has put the same type of clusters on all their low priced motorbikes, which is a good thing because when there is a large production
put out there, after market repo's are soon to follow, where all you need to do is to go to any local honda dealer & have a look at their little grommet road bike, & look at the cluster
gauge, then go on line & look up bike clusters until you find the same looking type, ( which there's only one type that looks the same) where they are less than $40 delivered. & because they are
Honda Repo's they will fit straight into the mounts, with out ant cutting or drilling, & will plug straight into the electrical connector too, & the only drama you may come across may be the speedo?
which may take some time to correctly set, because no instructions come with the after market cluster. But "Hey" a cluster that fits & plugs straight into a RR for less than $40, compared
to Big $$ for a new factory one, or $200 to $300 for a crappy used one?? Note if your on a 600RR the max RPM read out on this after market cluster only reaches to 14000 but that's still not bad
where you'll just set the red 1000 before it should.
#7
With the cluster swap out for cbr/rr's, depending what year, your looking at pulling the front fairing assembly for most of them, & usually utube will get you there.
Once you got the fairing off, depending what model, there may be this or that which needs to be pulled, & then it's a few bolts, & unplug the main electrical connector
Then it will pop off. But then it's replacement will be the issue?, where they can be very expensive, because once these clusters came in a sealed one part unit,
& lets say the led read out is gone?, either unless your a wiz in this department & can fix it, which is a 1 in a 1000000 chance you are? or like most other punters,
you'll have to either get a good condition 2ed hand cluster, or if they are still making new one's? have to pay a lot of money to pick your self up one. "BUT" because you've
got a Honda, where these days Honda has put the same type of clusters on all their low priced motorbikes, which is a good thing because when there is a large production
put out there, after market repo's are soon to follow, where all you need to do is to go to any local honda dealer & have a look at their little grommet road bike, & look at the cluster
gauge, then go on line & look up bike clusters until you find the same looking type, ( which there's only one type that looks the same) where they are less than $40 delivered. & because they are
Honda Repo's they will fit straight into the mounts, with out ant cutting or drilling, & will plug straight into the electrical connector too, & the only drama you may come across may be the speedo?
which may take some time to correctly set, because no instructions come with the after market cluster. But "Hey" a cluster that fits & plugs straight into a RR for less than $40, compared
to Big $$ for a new factory one, or $200 to $300 for a crappy used one?? Note if your on a 600RR the max RPM read out on this after market cluster only reaches to 14000 but that's still not bad
where you'll just set the red 1000 before it should.
Once you got the fairing off, depending what model, there may be this or that which needs to be pulled, & then it's a few bolts, & unplug the main electrical connector
Then it will pop off. But then it's replacement will be the issue?, where they can be very expensive, because once these clusters came in a sealed one part unit,
& lets say the led read out is gone?, either unless your a wiz in this department & can fix it, which is a 1 in a 1000000 chance you are? or like most other punters,
you'll have to either get a good condition 2ed hand cluster, or if they are still making new one's? have to pay a lot of money to pick your self up one. "BUT" because you've
got a Honda, where these days Honda has put the same type of clusters on all their low priced motorbikes, which is a good thing because when there is a large production
put out there, after market repo's are soon to follow, where all you need to do is to go to any local honda dealer & have a look at their little grommet road bike, & look at the cluster
gauge, then go on line & look up bike clusters until you find the same looking type, ( which there's only one type that looks the same) where they are less than $40 delivered. & because they are
Honda Repo's they will fit straight into the mounts, with out ant cutting or drilling, & will plug straight into the electrical connector too, & the only drama you may come across may be the speedo?
which may take some time to correctly set, because no instructions come with the after market cluster. But "Hey" a cluster that fits & plugs straight into a RR for less than $40, compared
to Big $$ for a new factory one, or $200 to $300 for a crappy used one?? Note if your on a 600RR the max RPM read out on this after market cluster only reaches to 14000 but that's still not bad
where you'll just set the red 1000 before it should.
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