2nd gear slippage..
#1
2nd gear slippage..
So I've been doing some reading around the internet and it seems that the dogs are worn out on the second gear when this happens. I also read that people are replacing the gear entirely when it looks the same as the new one. Is there something that happens to the gear when the dog becomes worn out? What typically needs replacing (gear(s), shift drum, shift forks)? Also if there is anyone that has had to do this, what am i in store for as in mechanically? What also should be done while I am inside the transmission (clutch, oil sludge, shift linkage, ect. ect.)?
I am comfortable with doing my own work it is just that i am lack of tools, not that i can't free rent any. If anyone could kindly direct me toward a write up that wins all.
I am comfortable with doing my own work it is just that i am lack of tools, not that i can't free rent any. If anyone could kindly direct me toward a write up that wins all.
#2
The dogs are what hold the gear in place when selected. The angle is critical to pull the next gear in place. They are not the teeth that you see on the gear itself. The Clymer and Haynes manuals cover the disassembly of the engine down to the cases. Take lots of photos, bag all parts assemblies, and don't think you can remember how to put it back together, because you'll forget something. Document everything. Don't forget the gasket set. Good luck.
Just had a thought.
You said slippage. Do you mean missing the gear or the feeling of the revs rising without forward drive? One could be clutch slippage rather than missing the gear shift. Even bouncing the gear out could be the shift detent spring rather than a complete tear down. A little more info on symptoms pls.
Just had a thought.
You said slippage. Do you mean missing the gear or the feeling of the revs rising without forward drive? One could be clutch slippage rather than missing the gear shift. Even bouncing the gear out could be the shift detent spring rather than a complete tear down. A little more info on symptoms pls.
Last edited by gpfan1; 08-26-2013 at 12:17 AM. Reason: may have misunderstood original question.
#3
Sometimes when i accelerate very hard into the high rev range i will shift into second and it just didn't engage, so i will be in neutral and i'll hit on the gas not knowing that. I'll look down and see my neutral light is on and ill try to shift into second while i still have the rpms up and it will grind a little bit sometimes and sometimes it will not. Now that i think about it it does sound more like a clutch....but wouldn't that happen for all of the gears and not just second? Sometimes i just think i am just panzy footing it but even when i concentrate on my shifting it will happen. I heard you can drop the oil pan and see inside there if the dogs are worn or something.
#4
#5
Sometimes when i accelerate very hard into the high rev range i will shift into second and it just didn't engage, so i will be in neutral and i'll hit on the gas not knowing that. I'll look down and see my neutral light is on and ill try to shift into second while i still have the rpms up and it will grind a little bit sometimes and sometimes it will not.
Once the gearbox falls into neutral, the spinning parts within begin to lose momentum... slow down. When you try to force the shift at this time, after missing the "window of opportunity" for a good shift, where things are spinning at the optimum range for synching, you can take some chunks outta stuff! Basically, it's like trying to mesh two cogs, where one is spinning at a very high rate of rotation, and the other one is spinning slowly... that's where your grinding comes from.
False neutrals suck, no doubt - when you're entering a turn, whether on the street or on track, they can lead to a crash. But if you are able to safely keep control of the bike, though the gear you expected is not there, just let the revs fall back down, try to slow the bike with the brakes, and then grab a gear. It will be better on your gearbox, but like I said, IF you can do it safely... freewheeling can be dangerous, for sure.
Like CorruptFile said, if your tranny is spent, it's spent, but a shift kit might help with more positive shifts, they do tend to reduce false neutrals a bit.
#6
What do you guys recommend? At the end of the season pull the engine or install this shift kit that might solve my problem for awhile. To me it sounds like a worn down dog and it sucks and I just want to hear i'm panzy footing it XD. If it is the shift fork worn, what needs replacement? shift fork, which gear(s), and what about a shift drum? While i have the engine out i will most likely be putting in a shift kit to make the gears last till i go fuel injected.
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I did a writeup for the F1. Very similar to yours
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f-...ft-kit-144799/
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f-...ft-kit-144799/