I would go with stock the 38's and 135's

 

Thanks for the quick reply. That was the route I was considering going until I pulled the jets from the box and took a closer look at them.

Looks like I'll go with the 128s and 130s, and put the needle clip one slot in from the middle. If necessary, I'll go stock 135s on 2&3 with the clip in the middle slot, and the 130s on 1&4 with the clip one slot in and go from there.

 

Seems a good compromise

 

So, attempted to sync the carbs but the sync tool was broken, more fun with this bike. While waiting to get the replacement tool, I decided to double-check the valves. With the mickey mouse way some things have been put together on this bike, there's no way of trusting what the previous owner said.

Good thing I've got a spare motor for the timing marks on the covers, but the timing rotor/gear has no marks on it. Can I simply make a template of where the timing marks are on the stock gear/rotor and go for it, or will I need to swap this back to stock?

On the plus side, I'm learning a lot about this bike.

 

Hi, think either of those suggestions would work, as the generator rotor can only go on one way ( lined up with the crank) but would be easier to put the marked one back on, but while its off make a pattern and stamp in on the unmarked one for future use,

 

Valve check is done, with 2 exhaust valves out of spec (0.254 and 0.266) and a couple of them right on the edge (0.200 ad 0.203). Intake valves are all in spec, range from 0.144 to 0.168.

I'll pull the exhaust cam one day this week and get those sorted out, then get to the carb sync as the repair kit for the broken tool just showed up.

 

Take it you stuck the stock rotor in

 

Indeed, easiest route to go. Is there any point in keeping the aftermarket rotor?

 

I would matey, hate throwing anything away, that's why my workshop if full

 

I'll keep it in a drawer, just thinking that there's really no benefit/performance gain in keeping it on the bike?