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-   F2 For Sale / Trade / Wanted (https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-sale-trade-wanted-94/)
-   -   EBC Brake Brakets (https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-sale-trade-wanted-94/ebc-brake-brakets-148053/)

Brian1993F-2 07-16-2013 10:21 PM

EBC Brake Brakets
 
For some reason I cannot find the EBC relocation brake brackets that allow for fitment of the 310mm rotors.

Anybody know where I could get them be awesome.

JNSRacing 07-18-2013 09:37 AM

I purchased my brackets directly from EBC - the number for EBC USA is 818-362-5534.
The part number is BRK 15S.

Brian1993F-2 07-19-2013 09:41 AM

Thanks for the info JNS.

I spent the past two weeks looking around the web and could not seem to find them, I assumed that they had stopped producing the product.

I called them this morning and this is true sadly, they discontinued this part some time ago.

So it looks like a no go upgrading to 310mm rotors, someone maybe have a rough idea how much it would cost to have a machine shop custom make a set?

I will probably just upgrade my stock rotors, I don't want to go to the F3 wheels and brakes and lose my F2 tach.

JNSRacing 07-19-2013 10:02 AM

Well, if you didn't have the part number before, I would do a Google search using "EBC BRK15S", just to see if you can find anything.

For what it's worth, you won't lose your tach when converting to an F3 front end, but I'm thinking you meant speedo! :D

Brian1993F-2 07-19-2013 05:29 PM

Nope, still can't find them. So if you know where I can get them by chance let me know. Otherwise it is discontinued and can't find them anywhere online.

With no speedo the tach is useless for a road bike because it won't pass inspection, and I'm not trying to make a track bike.

JNSRacing 07-19-2013 07:49 PM

Well, the good news is, if you're not working toward a track-ready bike, then there's no need at all to drop $450 on that rotor setup - the stock F2 brakes are somewhat underated, and I assure you that with new fluid, properly bled, an upgrade to stainless steel lines, and good pads, you'll have more stopping power than you'll probably ever need.

Now, if you DO have money to burn, then you could go ahead and upgrade to an F3 front end, and then install an aftermarket gauge set, that uses a sensor and magnets on the front wheel to get the speed reading.

I haven't decided on which model yet, but I am going to be picking up one of these Koso sets before the start of next race season, maybe sooner, if I'm lucky!

The RX-1N:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3759/9...cfd2656fb9.jpg

The RX-2:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3691/9...960130d44e.jpg

Or the RX-2N:

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2809/9...19c1aa8fee.jpg

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Brian1993F-2 07-19-2013 09:10 PM

Should I just upgrade the current rotors on my bike then?

I already have an entire stainless line set, got it when there was a group buy on the forum a few years ago.

My bike has been sitting in my parents basement for two years, sad I know. Started stripping chrome parts of and selling them, not a fan of chrome and way to much upkeep.

The first owner had the bike stretched 8 inches and loads of chrome all over it and lowered 3 inches I believe, maybe more. Ill have to check that

Been spending the last 3 years just buying parts, and have so many its time to finally start doing something. Looking to replace my entire brake system pretty much, rebuild both master cylinders and all caliper all new lines, just need pads in rotors.

JNS in your opinion is the F3 setup worth the $$$? I know its much better design in general.

Those tachs are really nice, but I prefer the F2 tach with the age of the bike. Plus hides everything behind it, to me more pleasing to the eye.

Brian1993F-2 07-19-2013 09:20 PM

I found an older post of yours JNS pretty much answering my question...

So if I have F3 forks already, I can get the entire calipers and lines and master from an F3.

I have 41mm woodcraft clip-ons, I'm assuming the controls are the same on the F2 and F3? Including length of cables.

So I just need a F3 front wheel and rotors? And then a corresponding tach that you posted in a previous post?

JNSRacing 07-20-2013 07:17 PM


Originally Posted by Brian1993F-2 (Post 1242305)
Should I just upgrade the current rotors on my bike then?

If your F2 rotors are not warped, and within service tolerance, I wouldn't see a need to replace them at all.


Originally Posted by Brian1993F-2 (Post 1242305)
JNS in your opinion is the F3 setup worth the $$$? I know its much better design in general.

Like I mentioned before, the F2 brakes are quite sufficient, if they are in good knick, especially with braided stainless lines - since you aren't going for a track setup, then no, I wouldn't see the point of spending any money converting, unless you just really want to, like, for the sake of having a project.

JNSRacing 07-20-2013 07:28 PM


Originally Posted by Brian1993F-2 (Post 1242306)
So if I have F3 forks already, I can get the entire calipers and lines and master from an F3.

I'm fairly certain your F2 master cylinder would work, I don't know if there's any difference at all between them, like piston size and whatnot, and you might be able to use the same braided lines too.


Originally Posted by Brian1993F-2 (Post 1242306)
I have 41mm woodcraft clip-ons, I'm assuming the controls are the same on the F2 and F3? Including length of cables.

The clip-ons will be fine, and your controls and cables should be nearly, if not entirely, identical to the F3 as well... the F2 and F3 are about 95% the same bike.



Originally Posted by Brian1993F-2 (Post 1242306)
So I just need a F3 front wheel and rotors? And then a corresponding tach that you posted in a previous post?

Well, if you do want to do the conversion, then yeah, you'll need the wheel and rotors - I'm pretty sure the axle is the same.

As far as the speedo issue, there is another option to consider - do a forum search regarding the F4i gauge conversion on the F2, where some folks used a front sprocket cover from a different model (not sure which), that has a speed sensor, in conjunction with a "Speedo Healer", to get the signal to the F4i gauge set.


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