Honda CBR 600f4 fuel tank petcock diaphragm connector

Brocky78 — Sun, 10 May 2026 16:57:30 GMT

all am Really hoping someone on here can put me out of my misery as another sunny day gone by & no bike to ride took out carbs cpl mnts ago slowly got round to putting everything back together, cpl aqwards jobs as never done before, just when about to fill up coolant attach tank again am stumped where connection to petcock is am talking about main tap petcock side of tank 3 pm position/where the connection

To my understanding the two connections from the fuel pump smaller one have connected to the carb fuel rail Brown T- connection the bigger pipe is to connect to big nipple on tank behind skinny brown plastic pipe. shown in pics near top someone else had my bike trying to sort as not started since trailered home Feb
Go's exactly can't seem to see it not sure if missing everything else seems c onnected like there no where to connect it even am confused have added few pics! AlAlso I connected brown tube as it was completely blocked up by previous owner with rubber & jublie clip thought was ment to be breather pipe but now think supposed to be vacuum? is it 1 of the 4 small vacuum pipes one blocked gold screws shown in pic?

First Bike, '01 F4i

ViaParadise — Fri, 08 May 2026 20:59:42 GMT

Hey Everyone,

I only drove an automatic forester, when I was in college I wanted a Boxster or a bike but I never pulled the trigger on either. I finished the MSF course in April and met a few great people, one of whom I travelled with to pick up my first bike. She's a 2001 CBR600 F4i with 19k miles that I got for $3,200.

Previous owner had his bike mechanic buddy help him replace the fuel rail and check the CCT for any issues. He had spliced the side stand wires after it tripped on him and left him stalled on the highway.

In the first month of ownership I've had the ignition switch (which was already a bit gummy) eat a key. I got an aftermarket switch. So far I was able to get the pump working by putting in a new zener diode but I hadn't noticed the fan wasn't actually getting power. I jumped the contacts in the ignition switch but the fan still didn't kick on unless I manually jumped the thermostatic switch to ground. I'm planning to solder a jumper from BAT1 to FAN in the after market ignition switch and install a new thermostatic switch as well as splice a toggle switch to kick the fan on at lower temps.

She's not pretty (previous owner scratched it and so did I) and she's a little f**ked up but getting to learn about my own vehicle and getting her to work has been a pleasure. Much thanks to this forum already regarding the zener diode, any other advice or help is appreciated, thank you all.

New member intro. 87 hurricane 1000f with a 91 1000f motor swap.. wont start.

88canefighter — Fri, 01 May 2026 03:47:44 GMT

First off, wanna introduce myself, names DC im from Binghamton area in upstate NY..... seasoned rider(been on 2 wheels since i got my first 50cc honda when i was 7, raced motox and trail ridden my whole life. Have had a few different street bikes, 03 ninja 636, a 99 ninja 600, an 07 ninja 250, and have an 83 vulcan thats my chopper looking project ive been doing slowly over the years. And i also had an 02 cbr 954rr which i got a crazy offer for i couldnt refuse especially because i had just found out i was about to be a father. But recently I got an 87 cbr1000f hurricane off my buddy in pretty decent shape besides the rear got slightly tweaked in trade for doing a headmaster in his Toyota highlander so of course. I see a bike that needs to breathe and be free again, of clurse im gonna jump on it plus he was hurting for funds and im not a mechanic to line mybl pockets. Id rather see my customers feed thier families than my bank account
......and as for the rear damage I have already chopped and built mounting plates and fitted an 00 yamaha r6 tail onto it and have a ninja zx9r one piece tail light/signals i built braketd for snd fit to go with it temporarily for once i take it on the road.. So it came in torn to pieces status. The reg rec was beat and the wires were broken close to the box itself but it came with a spare so I got that repined into the right pin layouts as well as connector swaps, which I had to do with the new fuel pump it came with as well. So upon getting the bike I first had to remove all 3 calipers from thier brackets just to be able to get the thing to roll out of his garage without disconnecting the lines and making a mess... it had come with an ignition to a 91 zip tied to it but upon checking thats connections under the barrel they were corroded beyond repair... but it had the original key and ignition as well as the tank key(not sure if its normal for this year's entire cap housing come right out of the bike but mine does, found this tanks weird all the way around with the obnoxious petcock mounting tube thats 24mm wide... but hey it was a different time right lol, and also that this petcock had no tube or port at all for vacuum which I also found odd). But the starter/killswitch was only half there... and the starter button was broken as it was so it couldn't make the proper contact, so replaced that one with an f4i one I found cheap on Amazon which shows exact same color pinning to the right pins on the body harness. (Except my older one had the brown wires looped back from pin 5 to pin 8 with a brown and white wire. Which I've found is to the running lights. And I've since gone through and used the proper electrical cleaner tools and products to ensure it didnt damage them but rid all the corrosion. And found a couple breaks in wires that I have since cleared, soldered and heatshrinked over to protects them form the elements. And I've replaced all the spark plugs and double checked gap as well.. and I had a buddybof mine let me borrow coils we had tested and were proper specs with wires to match(sort of. Yheyre off a newer cbr so didny have the dust covers for tye valve cover part of them. Cuz my wire 1 was twisted and had a soft spot mid bend and i figured thatd effect spark tegardless so swapped 3 diff sets of coils and wires And had no continuity or resistance issues. But still wouldnt fire...Ive cleaned all the grounds on the bike as well. Checked every fuse. And ive gone through every , and I mean every single wire on this bike. Ive rebuilt and cleaned the starter, the carbs, flushed and cleaned the coolant system and oil system along with drained and bled the clutch. and also rebuilt all 3 calipers and flushed and filled with new fluid as well which sorted out the first issue I had with it... and I have proper readings to and from cdi to ignition, to killswitch, to reg/rec to coils... and i did my digging on here and seen that in order for the 87 harness to work it needs the dual pickup pulse generators which it has but couldnt really get a decent reading on them thile trying to crank or turn the ignition without the leads moving. And I've also found that my petcock was leaking from a Crack in the casing of it so I just threw some hose and downsizers with clamps and ensured a sealed fit to the filter and pump but it didnt want to fire then. So then I read about the jumper for the fuel cutoff relay and tried that and it didnt start on its own. After a couple sprays of starter fluid it fired then died almost immediately and hasn't started since and its on a hose, to filter(new and is oriented in proper flow direction ) to a shutoff and to carbs cuz i read on here to just gravity feed just to shut it off to avoid hydrolocking and the obvious spillage in an accident ... ik the battery has to be prime and these call for 220 cca so as a temporary til I could see if it was worth sinking any real money into especially since a battery of that caliber is gonna be fun to fit in the smaller r6 mid section between the lower plastics and seats after my tuck and tidy I had done. Im using a battery from a zero turn that met its end here at my place thats rated for 250cca which i figured would be perfect just as a test battery(so please correct me of im wrong about that, this is my first older bike that I've tackled an electrical system on ) ik this is long for a newbies post but I figured id just get all the info out cuz ik it helps pinpoint where to look and what I may have done wrong or could have done to avoid certain things. I did notice carb 4 was a little wet on the inside of the inake tube to motor when I removed the carbs again last night cuz I was gonna go through them incase something got clogged since reinstall... and there's no airbox on this, it didnt fit with the new tail a
And the fuel routing problem i temporarily set up. I do still have it but was gonna go pods cuz thats a prime spot for the battery and coolant overflow for a clean look... And I thoroughly cleaned the tank and the vent in the tank as well of any kind of debris or tank saver ther previous owners had put into it. And ik not to use any abrasives or anything to gouge or scrape the cabr components also... learned that lesson on an old ninja that loved to leak out of the carbs cuz I didnt do my research properly... and this also has an alternator(which being a mechanic and having an 83 vulcan i was shocked to see a nearly full sized alternator on a bike 🤣 but I get the prupose. And I do have the download of the owners manual and I've gone through it a few times trying to figure out what exactly im missing or what I could do just to get it to fire and hopefully run. Its already almost may and I havebt been on 2 wheels since last June so the itch is bad bad lol. If anyone has any ideas of what it could be let me know. Also when I did the coolant flush the previous owners obviously didnt know better than to not mix coolant cuz it was xrusted pretty bad. And alot of powder but I've taken every inlet and outlet off the block and flushes out each coolant jacket that I know of(I havent torn the valve covers or block down cuz I figure thats last ditch effort and if it is possibly a timing thing which im hoping its jot cuz I heard it was a fun little project thats meticulous especially if im trying to leave the motor I. The bike cuz I will be moving within a month so id like to not have parts everywhere and lose anything I. The process... and I drained the oil which was extremely clean but im guessing thats cuz it hasn't ran since the previous owners probably started with a fresh lube n filter. Which I did myself anyways just to be sure its the right filter and viscosity oil. But as far as parts I havent changed I. The ignition system. Its the key and ignition itself xuz everything tested good and had clean connections, the cdi because they're a pretty penny as well but upon removing the case on mine I couldn't see any breaks in circuits anywhere that I could recognize, the pulse generators, and the alternator itself.... so any pointers would be fantastic cuz im ready to cut my losses and sell it cuz im downsizing much more than id like but its for a family emergency and wont have room to store the bike the car as well as all my tools in the space ill be using for maintenance so I figure getting this fixed is more economical. Plus hopefully cheaper than the $3000 transmission i need to finish my car... cuz for some dumb reason I just have to have unique stuff and had to build a 4 cylinder honda car that people need to do a double take when they see which motor it has in it due to rarity especially here in the states... but bikes first cuz I know what the car needs already.
Any help would be great so I can enjoy this and especially as a bit of therapy during the moving process.
sorry for the novel here guys.

Like i said. Ive traced and looked over every single wire on this thing.

The teg and the hurricane with the r6 tail swap(yes i know the motor is crooked in the car... theres no transmission in it and that happens to have 1 of 3 motor mounts on that side.)

Sort of the streetfighter look i was testing thoughts on . Smaller digital cluster and headlight i have signals mounted and tucked to the sides of the headlight housing.. but would need to make a mount for the cooler also

Ninja tail assembly in the r6 tail .havent made a lower fairing cover cuz im thinking of going with the 03-06 r6 tail light assy.

R6 tail with the front lower fairings on... the belley pan doesnt want to mount properly and the lower fairings poke out quite a bit due to the coolant inlet points on the 91 motor which ik are diff than the origial 87 ones they are meant to cover.

Mostly tucked fitting. Need am updated Pic of how it is now

ASV Unbreakable Levers discount code EZASV20

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Help with unknown part 05 CBR1000rr

Logoat — Wed, 22 Apr 2026 16:28:03 GMT

Hello everyone,

I�ve scoured this site, parts diagrams, and YouTube videos for weeks now, without any success in finding this part.

my bike lost all transmission engagement but still ran fine. I opened it up and discovered the chain that connects to the transmission (NOT the cam chain) was slack and there appeared to be a part that was damaged beneath it. I would assume was some sort of chain guide/tensioner.

it looked bent and I found one of the specialty �washers� that fit on it, inside the oil pickup tube along with a plastic piece and the outer clutch plate got shredded as well as a result of the incident.

can anyone tell me what this metal piece is and what this plastic �gear� looking piece is called?

or even better, where can I order them? I already ordered a new clutch kit but this is all I need to find now. (I cannot afford a whole new engine for $3000)

thank you!

Found inside the bottom of oil pan

Found one of those thicker washer looking pieces in the oil pickup tube, the other one was still on the bolt holding in the metal piece.

Here it is inside the motor up against the chain.

Hi everyone

Langusta — Wed, 22 Apr 2026 09:31:43 GMT