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Drag racing the 954rr.... Help needed
Well I took the 954 to the 1/8th mile last night and I am ashamed of what I ran. Keep in mind this was only the second time I have been to the track with a bike. And the first time I wasn't able to run but like twice. Anyway, best time of the night was a 7.60 @ 105 mph that's with a 2.00 60 foot. My bike is lowered by about 2 inches front and rear stock gearing, d and d exhaust, k & n with power commander. I found that it was easier to dump the cluch than to clutch it out. However I only ran a 7.60 I thought I would be able to leave harder with out it coming up. But I also think the stock gearing had someing to do with it.. Help me and what do you think... It's time for new sprockets and way so I'll probally go with -1. +2. Maybe that'll help.
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Originally Posted by bubba_finch07
(Post 982648)
Well I took the 954 to the 1/8th mile last night and I am ashamed of what I ran. Keep in mind this was only the second time I have been to the track with a bike. And the first time I wasn't able to run but like twice. Anyway, best time of the night was a 7.60 @ 105 mph that's with a 2.00 60 foot. My bike is lowered by about 2 inches front and rear stock gearing, d and d exhaust, k & n with power commander. I found that it was easier to dump the cluch than to clutch it out. However I only ran a 7.60 I thought I would be able to leave harder with out it coming up. But I also think the stock gearing had someing to do with it.. Help me and what do you think... It's time for new sprockets and way so I'll probally go with -1. +2. Maybe that'll help.
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Originally Posted by backdoc
(Post 996032)
Gearing will gain you .2-.3 tenths off your time. Strapping the front end(launch around 5-5.5K) will also help with your launches plus help keep front end on the ground. You have to remove most of the preload in your front forks to get 1-2" drop with the straps. So far my best 60ft is in the low 1.7's and this is with -1 front and stock rear sprocket. My bike is not stretched either. The k&n filter makes no difference. I changed my air filter back to stock and last time out I ran my best time of 10.69 in the 1/4. I think my best 1/8 time was low 6.90's. I plan to lower the rear of my bike next year to see how much it helps plus go +1 rear so I don't have to get a new chain. I have also put a Yoshimura RS3 half system on my bike last week in place of a Two Bros bolt-on. I do not dump the clutch off the line. I also plan on running some 100 octane race gas as I found out that most of the guys I met racing were running race gas.
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Originally Posted by shineynitelite
(Post 1000699)
running race gas on a pump gas tune will make you run slower. running race gas yields no gain without a tune and something to bump your timing.
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Originally Posted by shineynitelite
(Post 1000699)
running race gas on a pump gas tune will make you run slower. running race gas yields no gain without a tune and something to bump your timing.
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Originally Posted by backdoc
(Post 1001017)
For drag racing you want consistency. Its very hard to find 100% gas these days. The ethanol blended gas is not worth a crap for motorcycles so running 100 octane unleaded race gas will yield the best performance out of your bike. If I can find 100% 93 octane gas believe me that I will not pay over $7/gal for the 100 octane gas. Its not that you will gain much by using race gas but at least you will not lose performance by running the ethanol blended gas. Motorcycles will run just fine on 100 octane unleaded race gas and thats why gas stations that sell it have it where you can drive right up to the pump. There are other versions of race gas (100 and 107 octane) available at some gas stations but you are not allowed to pump it directly into a motorcycle and I would not consider running either of these in my bike.
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