Hey friends can you pls help me with the above rough idle issue? I have replaced the fpr syncd the TB. Havent checked the plugs or coils yet. Tps is cleaned and realligned, map is cleaned too.

Whats the reason for thia dancing idle, post 2K it runs just awesome and no power loss at all. Ride it for 2km or 200 km it remains the same.

 

Sorry guys video was set to private! Now changed to public

 

Do you have a longer video of it? Its hard to hear it for only 5 seconds, but it sure is jumping around. Are you sure there are no vacuum leaks?

Is this a new bike to you? Or did this develop? Has anything else been done to the motor? Is it a Cali/UK model by chance? The idle seems high to me. Do you have the idle adjuster screw turned up quite a bit? What happens if you back it off a bit and turn it down?

 

Was it doing this BEFORE you did the sync, fpr, Tps, and map cleaning?

Is the wax unit adjusted properly to have control of the idle and is it functioning properly?

 

Ooops too many questions to answer

Yes the bike is new, almost a month old with me. Sine the day i bought it it was juddering on cold start while moving ahead under 2K RPM, on heating it gave 8 blinks of the TPS. Wax idler used to work that time and once the auto choke stopped RPM comes down to 1000-1100 and jumps the same way in the video above.
Gave the bike for servicing to my regular mechanic, he did the Oil change, TB cleaning , MaP cleaning and TPS adjusment. After that the bike ran absolutely fit n fine but the idle was jumping as seen in the video, he told me its the fpr which is spitting fuel in the vaccum line. got the bike home (38Kms away) as i have to leave for my work assignment the day after. No TPS error or juddering noticed on the way back home.
Next day i changed the fpr myself on cold engine thinking that it will solve the jumping issue. this video is taken immediately after the fpr was changed. checked the FPR and it doesnt leak now.
Did a 200KM ride with the dancing idle, bike ran just perfect and no power loss or roughness noticed.
Point to be noted is that my wax idler stopped working after i got the bike back from the mechanic. Currently i am in Iraq and will be back home to check in March 1st week. Meanwhile ordered a spare FPR, plugs, coils, Injectors and TPS for safety.

 

Had one more video with the bike at 100 deg c


Pls check if this is normal! Once it cools down again same jumping

 

through experience, with the 954 i had, make sure fpr is good , no air leaks, and htev is in working order also check the kickstand switch connection. it was either keep all intake and exhaust stuff factory (factory air filter too) and have it synced with gauges. in other words in my case it was either all factory parts and make sure these parts where all in working order or get a full system, pc3 and custum and tune.

ps- cause when i starting screwing with emissions and stuff on intake and exhaust it just wouldnt idle and run smooth as i wanted it too in lower rpm ranges ( would scream up top though)

i had a slip on and k&n filter. sometimes you can go back to oem air filter even with slip on and it will smooth it back out at the lower rpms. this is just my experience only though...

lol, ok, i just read the whole post, if you have synced it, then what i would do after that is run and oem air filter, check the htev valve make sure its working good and check that kick stand switch connection and function. i just deleted mine, those go bad or have a bad connection and it will throw all kinds of codes (thats what mine did). or go full system , pc3 and custom tuned. just a suggestion...


also, fyi, those tps sensors are rivited in and pain in the *** to remove and clean then reset for most shops, most mechanics wont touch it...check and see if there are new rivits in it from where it was removed and cleaned....anyway, thats why its just easier and cheaper for me to replace whole tb unit rather than screw with riviet in electrical parts that i have to readjust.

my 954 was doing exactly what yours is, let me save you some time and money, run an oem air filter (new) and absolutely check the htev to make sure its working (lubricate cables, clean soot from valve itself with wd 40 so it moves smoothly) then intake flapper inside air box for full operation. then last but not least check that kick stand switch to make sure its working and has a good connection (even if you have to splice wires and crimp new connectors on it). thats it, then ride.. codes should go away

see i deleted the intake flapper, pinned the htev all the way open and also had a k&n air filter with slip on. which ran like a bat outta hell in mid range and top end but, ran like doo-doo at idle and at low rpms...herky jerky is what i call it.

bottom line -all the all the restrictions on intake and exhaust on these bikes keep it running really smooth for the street especially at lower rpms. if they malfunction or are deleted it causes these bikes to run rough at lower rpms.

ps- i still rip out all that crapp on all my bikes, however now i always put a full system and pc to make my bike run best. ive learned...lol

 

Again, its hard with the vid only being 5 seconds long, but I'm pretty sure I hear something mechanical behind the normal high pitched whine of the engine.


Do you have an IR gun readily available? I'd make sure all of your cylinders are running the same temp

 

Thanks guys, i will check on all these things mentioned. i am still doubting on the plugs coils or the TPS Sensor, have already bought these things to replace and check. Once m back home will try it out.
By the way here are the pics

 

and a few more