Replacing the Chain
I need to change out my chain and rear sprocket. is there any tips you guys have? do i need any special tool? also, how hard is it to change the chain and sprockets? perticulary the front.
This is an easy process with the right tools. Yes you will need a special tool. RK makes a chain breaker and installation tool wich makes the installtion much easier than using a grinder and punch.
Here is a Motion Pro chain breaker/riveting tool.
Here is a Motion Pro chain breaker/riveting tool.
My 929 came with a Sprocket Specialists rear with 48 teeth, in the split design - meaning the sprocket can be removed without removing the rear wheel. Their site is http://www.sprocketspecialists2.com/SprocketMain.aspx. (The forward sprocket is nothing to remove. Very simple.)
I bought a 41 tooth split sprocket from them and installed it ( thinking that was stock, when actually stock for a 929 is 42) The only complication was that I had to split the difference on the chain adjuster - in other words, when I shortened the chain, there was no "in-between" number of links - I had to move the rear axle back to the "worn" range marker. Not enough room to move it forward, and I didn't mind an extra half inch of wheelbase, anyway.
Also with the reduced diameter sprocket, the chain just kisses the rubber frame guard when I'm not sitting on the bike.
( Anybody notice if your chain does that with a stock 42 tooth? )
Also, buy a high quality swaging tool - you'll be surprised how much force it takes to mushroom the swageable link. Otherwise the process isn't too bad.
ALTHOUGH - the guy in the huge bike shop where I ordered the link looked at me cockeyed and said "Y'know, most guys just replace the swaged link with a clip-style master link." BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO...... not ME.......I gotta do everything by the BOOK....! ( y'know - the hard way)
Also, have more than one extra link on hand in case you bugger the first one up...... although I managed to get lucky on the first try.
[IMG]local://upfiles/4135/49605C866AE6498795DD77617915D65E.jpg[/IMG]
I bought a 41 tooth split sprocket from them and installed it ( thinking that was stock, when actually stock for a 929 is 42) The only complication was that I had to split the difference on the chain adjuster - in other words, when I shortened the chain, there was no "in-between" number of links - I had to move the rear axle back to the "worn" range marker. Not enough room to move it forward, and I didn't mind an extra half inch of wheelbase, anyway.
Also with the reduced diameter sprocket, the chain just kisses the rubber frame guard when I'm not sitting on the bike.
( Anybody notice if your chain does that with a stock 42 tooth? )
Also, buy a high quality swaging tool - you'll be surprised how much force it takes to mushroom the swageable link. Otherwise the process isn't too bad.
ALTHOUGH - the guy in the huge bike shop where I ordered the link looked at me cockeyed and said "Y'know, most guys just replace the swaged link with a clip-style master link." BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO...... not ME.......I gotta do everything by the BOOK....! ( y'know - the hard way)
Also, have more than one extra link on hand in case you bugger the first one up...... although I managed to get lucky on the first try.
[IMG]local://upfiles/4135/49605C866AE6498795DD77617915D65E.jpg[/IMG]
sweet! thanks for all the info. the split sprocket looks nice.
i tried to adjust the chain a bit to make it more rideable until i get the new parts. But i cannot loosen the damn axle nut for the life of me. you guys have air tools or somethin?
i tried to adjust the chain a bit to make it more rideable until i get the new parts. But i cannot loosen the damn axle nut for the life of me. you guys have air tools or somethin?
Gorgeous bike, by the way man - I want to get mine lookin that good by the Spring.
As far as the axle nut, it IS pretty tight - factory torque is 83 foot-pounds. You would never want to use an air tool on something like that anyway.
And the allowable slack on the chain amazes me - 2 inches! The acceptable range is 1.6 to 2.0 inches, but when you set it at 2, it looks like it's gonna fall off.
I'm curious - you said "make it more ridable" - I've never had a worn chain; how is the bike behaving? By that I mean, what are the symptoms you attempting to compensate for by tightening the chain?
As far as the axle nut, it IS pretty tight - factory torque is 83 foot-pounds. You would never want to use an air tool on something like that anyway.
And the allowable slack on the chain amazes me - 2 inches! The acceptable range is 1.6 to 2.0 inches, but when you set it at 2, it looks like it's gonna fall off.
I'm curious - you said "make it more ridable" - I've never had a worn chain; how is the bike behaving? By that I mean, what are the symptoms you attempting to compensate for by tightening the chain?
thank you sixs929,
The symptoms i am having is when i am rideing around, theres a clanking noise comming from the chain. i tried to measure and got
2" & 15/16 of an inch of slack. But the chain doesn't look like it is falling off or anything.
The symptoms i am having is when i am rideing around, theres a clanking noise comming from the chain. i tried to measure and got
2" & 15/16 of an inch of slack. But the chain doesn't look like it is falling off or anything.
the manual i have is inclear on how to measure the slack. i think i know how but would you tell me just so i am doing it right?
I lubed up the chain real good.. maybe its kinking/binding a bit.
I lubed up the chain real good.. maybe its kinking/binding a bit.


