Good fuel pump on, still no start.....help!
I have a good fuel pump in the bike now, but it seems the bad fuel pump was a secondary issue.
With the ignition on and the cut off switch on, the two relays under the seat do click on, and are sending out power. The bank angle switch is also working. If I unscrew it and turn it over, it clicks the two relays off.
It appears neither the fuel pump,ignition system,or theinjectors are doing anything. I tried to hotwire the fuel pump, and even with pressure built, it doesn't try to fire at all.
Ideas??
Questions:
1.What do each of the two under-seat relays go to?
2.The fuel pump power wire is the pink/green striped wire, correct? What doesit come from?
3.What powers both the ignition and the fuel pump?
Thanks, Phillip
With the ignition on and the cut off switch on, the two relays under the seat do click on, and are sending out power. The bank angle switch is also working. If I unscrew it and turn it over, it clicks the two relays off.
It appears neither the fuel pump,ignition system,or theinjectors are doing anything. I tried to hotwire the fuel pump, and even with pressure built, it doesn't try to fire at all.
Ideas??
Questions:
1.What do each of the two under-seat relays go to?
2.The fuel pump power wire is the pink/green striped wire, correct? What doesit come from?
3.What powers both the ignition and the fuel pump?
Thanks, Phillip
Can u hear the fuel pump prime up when the key and the switch is on? There is black/grey wire in the upper wiring harness that goes to the Gauges that will keep the fuel pump from cutting on if it has a loose connection or a short. I forgot if its in the grey connector or the blue connector, but i know for sure its there....That could be a problem IF the FP isnt cutting on.....Also, the factory ground can be a problem...Try to reground somewhere else....=-)
Fuel pump does not prime. I will check the black/grey wire. Sould it have 12V or ground? I will also move the factoryground, but I do know that the green ground wireto the pump is good.
BTW,I do have spark, it will fire onether.
Thanks, Phillip
BTW,I do have spark, it will fire onether.
Thanks, Phillip
Off the top of my head....At ur fuel pump u have a hot and ground wire...Take a voltage meter and put the NEGATIVE on the Positive wire of the fuel pump. Then take the POSITIVE and put it on the Negative wire at the fuel pump.....Turn the key while having the switch on....IF u get ANY voltage on the meter, then it means the Fuel Pump ground is bad and ur getting voltage feedback on the nagative wire (that will stop the pump from working)...Reground the fuel pump and see if it comes on and primes......Sorry i cant recall the colors....If u DL the 929rr Manual it will show u the color codes on the pump.....If u dont have it figured out by Friday, i'll be at home. And i can explain it a little more in detail, as i will be at my house on my PC with all my files then......=-)
If u have Spark, the problem is definately "something" not turning the fuel pump on. Once that problem is found and the pump cuts on, i bet it cranks....=-)
Simple fix, just a process of elimination...Ive been down that road before
If u have Spark, the problem is definately "something" not turning the fuel pump on. Once that problem is found and the pump cuts on, i bet it cranks....=-)
Simple fix, just a process of elimination...Ive been down that road before
From looking at Havoks schematic. They black/grey wire at the cluster i'm referring to would appear to be the fuel sensor wire.....How that will stop the fuel pump from working ( i have no clue). Even looking at that schematic i cant see how it would.....Im just saying that mine on my bike has a poor connection between the plug. The black/grey wire slowly backs its way out of one end of the plug and when it does, it turns my fuel pump off....Plug the wire back in and it works perfect. Honestly i have no clue, how or why....I'm just throwing some ideas as to what i have seen.....
If the lights come on, on ur cluster (then the ignition is working 90% of the time)
Your injectors arent getting fuel because ur fuel pump isnt pumping fuel to them. The fuel pump not cutting on is a DEFINATE problem.
Check ALL of ur fuses and check the engine stop relay fuse (20amp). Its a little fuse by the battery thats all alone. It inline between the battery and the Engine Stop Relay. And check that big azz 30amp fuse thats the main fuse. Should be in the fuse housing by itself, not one of those little fuses (ITS HUGE).......=-)
Can u tell me what the bike does?
Ignition turns on, lights on ignition?
Turns over?
Neutral light come on dash?
Anythig at all....=-)
PS: Havoc, thats the sexiest schematic ive ever seen/ I'm use to looking at PDF files, LMAO
If the lights come on, on ur cluster (then the ignition is working 90% of the time)
Your injectors arent getting fuel because ur fuel pump isnt pumping fuel to them. The fuel pump not cutting on is a DEFINATE problem.
Check ALL of ur fuses and check the engine stop relay fuse (20amp). Its a little fuse by the battery thats all alone. It inline between the battery and the Engine Stop Relay. And check that big azz 30amp fuse thats the main fuse. Should be in the fuse housing by itself, not one of those little fuses (ITS HUGE).......=-)
Can u tell me what the bike does?
Ignition turns on, lights on ignition?
Turns over?
Neutral light come on dash?
Anythig at all....=-)
PS: Havoc, thats the sexiest schematic ive ever seen/ I'm use to looking at PDF files, LMAO
Okay, got the fuel pump working.....this is goofy.
It appears the guy had a bad fuel pump, but decided to check everything else first. I can see where everything has been disconnected, and it turns out, he plugged the fuel pump plug into the one for the speed sensor, and vise-versa.
Unfortunately I didn't get to see if it would run by itselfbecause a huge rainstorm just came in and the bike's battery died.I putthe cover back on the bike and the battery on charge. The fuel pump was priming, and it was firing on ether, so if the injectors will do their thing tomorrow, it should run.
Hope this works.
-Phillip
It appears the guy had a bad fuel pump, but decided to check everything else first. I can see where everything has been disconnected, and it turns out, he plugged the fuel pump plug into the one for the speed sensor, and vise-versa.
Unfortunately I didn't get to see if it would run by itselfbecause a huge rainstorm just came in and the bike's battery died.I putthe cover back on the bike and the battery on charge. The fuel pump was priming, and it was firing on ether, so if the injectors will do their thing tomorrow, it should run.
Hope this works.
-Phillip
ORIGINAL: kentuckydiesel
2.The fuel pump power wire is the pink/green striped wire, correct? What doesit come from?
Thanks, Phillip
2.The fuel pump power wire is the pink/green striped wire, correct? What doesit come from?
Thanks, Phillip
Okay, still no start. The fuel pump is kicking on, but now I have no spark, and the injectors aren't squirting.
Both the injectors and the coils are powered with the black/white stripe wires, and they all have power. The computer is apparently not grounding them (injectors or coils) to get them to fire.
The only other ideas I have would be a faulty cam pulse generator, ignition pulse generator, or a bad computer. I did read this in the manual (pdf):
Both the injectors and the coils are powered with the black/white stripe wires, and they all have power. The computer is apparently not grounding them (injectors or coils) to get them to fire.
The only other ideas I have would be a faulty cam pulse generator, ignition pulse generator, or a bad computer. I did read this in the manual (pdf):
It must be remembered, however, that when any abnormality is detected in four injectors and/or the ignition and cam pulse generator, the fail safe function stops the engine from the standpoint of protecting it .
This would mean that if either of the "pulse generators" were bad, the computer would stop function of both fuel and ignition, correct? But why am I not getting a trouble code? I had the IAT sensor disconnected, and that threw a code. I know they can be tested, but I don't have the proper adapter for my multimeter. Should I just replace them?
Thanks, Phillip


