Hey guys. New 929 owner here and I havea couple of questions. I have read the HTEV and servo thread and searched and read on here for some time now. My thing is, I'm not finding an answer to my problem, or at leastI don't think I did.

I've got an '01 929 with 4800 miles on the clock. Just before I bought it, it had the plugs and fuel pressure regulator replaced. I know the plugs are the proper ones and the gap is correct, as I was the one to do that. (I bought this bike from the Hyundai dealer that I work for, and the owner wanted me to do this to the bike) It had a bad problem with flooding, and I had no idea what it was so we farmed it out to the Honda dealer for the FPR.

Now here's the thing.....bike runs VERY strong, but around 3k or so if you try to run it hardit starts cutting out really bad, fishbiting if you will so hard that it's like and M-16 going off. It will continue to do this until you either ride it on out, or until it gets completely hot, around 220 or so. Even when it hits its warmest temp, it will still do this a little. If the bike is cold, then you may as well forget trying to hit WOT or this will flat out not stop. I have not checked the HTEV or servo yet, as I simply haven't had the time, and I would really like to see some pics of this servo and valve so that I know what it is exactly that I am looking at.

Could it be possible that the bike has had a PC of some sort put on it and now it's not right? I have no idea about the previous owner other than I got it as a one owner bike. I do know that the PO has and RC that he runs like a raped ape, so I wonder about this bike. ???

Any help that you guys can give me, I truely do appreciate, as I am a Hyundai Tech for a living, not a bike tech.

**Almost forgot....Please don't read into my user name too much. I go by ZUKIMON on every forum that I am on.I used to be heavily into offroading Suzuki Samurai's, so hence the name. **

 

If it was flooding in the past and now it misfires/backfires like crazy I would start with fueling related problems. Check that the intake air temp sensor is plugged in as well as the map sensor, the bike uses those to calculate fueling. Also check the TPS to see that it gives off 0V when it's closed and 5V open. When you crack the throttle open at a quick rate the ecu adds an acceleration enrichment to keep things smooth. The only problem is that any of those going bad would make the bike run like crap all the time every time. I had a problem once when I first built mine that when I accelerated too hard it would shut off, then come back on during decel. It was just a section of the wiring harness was pinced and shorting. Bikes are easier to work on than cars, grab the manual if you haven't already and you'll figure it out.

 

I would get a manual and check the htev valve. The previous owner may have fixed the valve in it full open position or the valve could be really carboned up causing it to stay in the full open position. I only say this because I fixed my htev valve in the full open position and one day before the engine was full warm I cracked the throttle wide openaround 3000 rpm and it acted exactely like u described with your bike. Its because the bike was mapped from the factory to work with the valve. If the valve is open more than its suppose to be a a certain rpm then the ecu will not provide enough fuel at this point resulting in the bogging down effect.This is a fueling problem that can be fixed with a power commander. But first thing is get a manual and check the valve it very easy to acces and very easy to remove and inspect. Since your FI light isn't on I would heavily suspect this is your problem.

 

Maybe the gas line is pinched???

 

First of all, I would like to thank you guys for helping me here, as I have never been around any FI bikes and I am lost. I figure that they have to be very similar to the cars that I work on everyday, but I don't like not being able to connect my Snap-On Solus, or Hyundai GDS to it and seeing what's going on inside the ECM. lol

I don't think that the fuel line is pinched, but I wasn't the last one to have the tank off. I'll check that when I get back to working on it.

I would most definetetly like to check the HTEV, but I do not know the exact location of it. Like I said, I have read the posts and threads on doing this, but I have yet to see one pic of the darned thing. I believe that it is under the oil pan inside the gator (do you guys still call that part of the lower fairing the gator? lol) where the head pipes connect into the collector. Is this correct? I would also love to own a manual for it, or even a PDF or copy of it, but I have no idea yet where to get one of either. I assume that I can get a paper manual from ebay, but the only ones that I have ever used in the past were Clymers. What do you guys reccomend?
BTW dizzy, the light isn't on, and doesn't come on that I have noticed. I wish this thing had a port to connect my scanner to. hehe


I have a few other questions that I would like to ask if you don't mind. What temps do these particular bikes like to run in the city? On the highway? What is the reccomended first service interval, and why is it that everyone says that the first service is so expensive from the dealer? Do they adjust valves and such or what? I plan on doing an oil change before I ride it again, but is there anything else that I should do with it having 4800 on it? With this amount of miles, is there anything you would do to it if you were unsure what the P.O. had done?

Sorry for all the newb questions, but we all have to start somewhere. I've seen a lot of these type posts in the years that I have been on zuwharrie.com, but over there we try to help out everyone no matter how "dumb" they are. lol haha J/K