Can somebody tell me how I delete error codes ? I can't find the instructions anymore..
I had a melted connector between rectifier and stator... after replacing the connectors it happened again... and now for what ever reason the pomp isn't priming..

....
I also checked error codes but there are too many s need to delete them??
There was a small pin in one of the connectors .. which i removed and not sure where it was..

 

 

Update: relay doesn't get power, pomp works connected directly to power source

 

This is relatively simple fix in 5-minutes with multimeter:

0. pull headlight fuse so battery doesn't get drained.

1. at engine-stop relay socket, measure voltage on red/wht wire, volts = ???

2. at engine-stop relay socket, measure resistance between red/org wire and chassis-ground, ohms = ???

3. key ON, kill=RUN, at engine-stop relay socket, measure voltage on blk wire, , volts = ???

That's probably all we need to know to fix this without replacing a single part. Most of time it's issues with corroded/broken wiring or corroded connectors.

 

First of all Thank you for your response.. I was getting depressed with the whole thing and gave up for a while.. that's why I respond so late...

1. Redwire i get 11.45V same as battery
2. I get no resistance
3. Which black wire do you mean?

Not sure if i measure correctly so here are some pictures.

 

# 1 & 2 OK

# 3 flip fusebox over and measure voltage at blk wire going to engine-stop relay

Also charge battery, needs to be > 13v to be useful

We are tracing flow of power to ECU starting at battery. +13v, +13v, +13v, +13v, 0v <-- ahah!!! That's where problem is and we should look closer for broken wire or corroded or unplugged connector.

 

Black red is 0 V ( being the pulled headlight fuse)
Black blue is 13 v


You think the weird metal pin in the ecu connector could have someth8ng to do with it?

 

Should pull out metal pin, it was probably inserted to measure voltage on that terminal.

I mis-read this:

Do you mean you get 0-ohms? Or no connection/infinite ohms/OL-open loop?

Sorry, I forgot relays weren't in fusebox.

3. Key ON, kill=RUN,
4. flip engine-stop relay over and measure voltage at blk wire.
5. measure voltage at red/wht wire
6. measure voltage at blk/wht wire

 

Red/white = 12V Blue + 2 others black/white & black = 0V Black = 0.3V Red = 0.3V I believe the thin red goes to fusebox and there it gives 12v so if im correct this wire is broken?



This what i get measuring resistance.. no reaction

 

You've multiple issues, thus multiple error codes. Codes will go away when faults that triggered them are fixed.

Keep battery on charger, we want it over 13v

ENGINE STOP RELAY - powers entire EFI system, ECU, fuel-pump, injectors, coils

red/wht - power-input from 20a FI, that's OK
blk - activation power from kill-switch, NOT OK
red/org - activation ground from BAS, NOT OK
blk/wht - output power to ECU, fuel-pump, injectors, coils, NOT OK

At this point, we need to back up and inspect stuff that activates engine-stop relay since it's not getting turned ON properly. Follow path of electricity from battery:

1. red/wht power input power from FI fuse = 12v, good

2. red power input to ign-switch from battery, volts = ??

3a. key ON, red/blk ign-switch output power, volts = ???
3b. red/blk input power to fusebox, volts = ???

4a. wht/blk ign-fuse output power from fusebox, volts = ???
4b. wht/blk input power to kill-switch, volts = ??

5a. kill-switch=RUN, blk output power from kill-switch, volts = ??
5b. engine-stop relay, blk activation power from kill-switch, volts = ??

6a. engine-stop relay, red/org resistance to ground, 1/open-circuit not good
6b. BAS vertical, red/org measure resistance to chassis-ground, ohms = ??
6c. BAS, grn measure resistance to chassis-ground, ohms = ? ??

One or more of these will be incorrect, numbers will tell us broken wire or disconnected plug in between