Yes we have all read it here before, my battery died...I replaced it...battery drains, bike surges, gauges cut out ect. I checked the stator as per the haynes manual and the resistances were .6 like they should be, and continuity through all 3 wires. When it came to checking the rectifier I got a little confused. The manual tells you to remove the battery then check for voltage on the loom side of the rect. conection. How the hell am I supposed to get voltage with the battery removed? Who can tell me how to check the rect. in simple terms? Would the checks for the stator in the Haynes manual completely eliminate it as the problem? I'm a little confused and don't want to replace anything I dont have to. Have any of you guys dealt with a faulty rectifier/regulator? With my new battery charged and put in the bike I can't get more then 12 volts when I run it. So it is definately the stator or rect, I just need to know which one. Thanks

 

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Have battery at full charge.
Have bike running.
Put voltage tester on battery....Watch voltage...
Rev bike(while in nuetral) to 5k rpm. Does the voltage increase? If not, replace the stator.

The haynes manual and the actual honda service manual have the same error, which you've mentioned. I had the same problem and even though I would get an accurate ohms resistence reading .6 (.1 ~ 1.0), it was at a cold temparature, compared to what the bike experiences while you are riding it.

When I replaced my OEM stator, you could easily see that some of the coil limbs were burnt and melted. Even some of the magnets had shifted slightly. This was only noticeable when the bike fails to charge itself, thus you noticing it only after the battery has worn itself down pass the point of suppling the electronics and fuel system because the rectifier can't regulate voltage back to the battery if it's not getting the juice from the stator. Hence the reason I said that your reading was taken at cold temparature. You can go OEM or aftermarket with the stator. OEM is expensive and of the posts I've seen on here, those that have purchased them, are happy. You can also go aftermarket. They are just as good and some say they have gone over a year without replacement so far.

I too just replaced with aftermarket. The only downfall is not all four hex bolt holes lined up perfectly. The one I got, did allow for three of the bolts to line up. I could have just drilled out the fourth hole correctly but new that three bolts torqued down with some loc-tite would work.

The first section should wrap it up for ya though.

 

Thank you for the replys, I forgot to mention that the previous owner hard wired the stator into the rect plug. Probably due to a melted plug.

 

I checked the AC voltage off the 3 yellow wires from the stator. A+B was 80V @ 5000rpm, A+C was 80V @ 5000rpm and C+B was 30V @ 5000rpm. So I guess this concludes that my stator is screwed.I called the dealer and they want $458 Canadian for a new one........Ouch.

 

Anyone know if a 954 stator is the same?

 

speak of the devil, I just went through the same problem, but my stator was shorted to ground. $300 later i got the honda one. but the my cover cracked. anyone know the torque for the alternator cover bolts? doesnt say in the book. was thinking about 10nm..?

 

Alternator cover bolts? I think 9 ft/lbs using loctite 242 but will verify tomorrow. I am changingmy statornow. Just have to orderone now.