So I know my rr is toast. Not sure how to check the stature to see if its bad. Any suggestions would be great.

 

So battery is at 13.67 volts turned off. When turning the ignition on, it drops down to 12.31 volts. Now bike won't start at all. Kickstand is up, turned to run, key is turned on, fuses are fine, gas in tank, gas cutoff is not changed, popping clutch does not turn engine over either. Not sure what to do at this point. Any help again is appreciated.

 

Check out these to threads. Very comprehensive, will definetly give you a start on
figuring out the issues.


Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums

https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-9...-solved-27739/


Hope these help, Ern

 

HMMMM.... So I may have figured out what the heck is wrong with my CBR 900RR (94). Of course it sounds like a bad R/R, but infact it might be just fine after all. It was replaced before I got it. Last owner of course had charging issues. Here are two pictures of the R/R.





As you may notice, the connector is upside down on the blasted thing. Has minor crack, but I don't feel like it hurts anything. So here is my question. I have a manual for a 96 cbr900 and it should be about the same. It shows where the rectifier is and how to change it, but does not state where the cables need to go exactly. So, I know the three yellow wires (in my case) go on the bottom three prongs. But I dont know which is which for my Red/White (+) and Green (-) wires need to connect. (In my case) the top left or the top right? Any help with this would be AMAZING! Im thinking that the rectifier isn't working correctly because it's plugged in wrong. :/ Ill re-wire the harness if needed. Have the right cable and connections. Thanks for your help.

 

By the looks, the r/r IS fried. The epoxy fill should be a smooth flat surface.
If it was replaced, the previous owner went with the original sub-par stock
regulator/rectifier. Honda now makes an upgraded component with heat-fins.

You can also use a GSXR r/r or (my personal choice ) an Electrosport model.
Found here www.electrosport.com .

As far as the wiring, if the connector on the harness, shows NO sign of heat damage,
it will just plug up. if you have to by-pass the connector (I did), the 3 yellow are
inter-changable, and the red is as noted + and the green is -. You can use the harness
for the connection or go straight to the battery terminals with these from the r/r.





here is pics to help guide you.
hope this helps, Ern

 

Checking the regulator, not sure if what im seeing is good or bad. Using a multimeter, when I connect the red (+) lead to the power in on the R/R and the Black (-) to the yellow just above, I get no resistance. Same with all the other stator cables. When I use the red (+) on the green negative and black (-) on the yellow stator wires I get .479, .472, and .478. Im not sure if this is a good sign or a bad one. It does not tell me weather it was mixed up when the regulator was put together. Still unsure of which is positive.

 

In my picture, the lower left is positive (red/white) and the lower right
is ground (green).

By just the physically observed condition of the r/r, the one shown is smoked,
as I mentioned before. You definitely need a new one.

The second half of the article (below), tells how to test the stator coils,
so that you can confirm they're integrity.

Here is the relevant text from the article I linked to you....

************************************************** ****

A ‘cold’ resistance check for shorted diode/SCR:
Unplug both input & output plugs from R/R;
With your meter set to read resistance (use a diode test if the your multi-meter has one), test from each pin of the three pin plug, to both the red & black wired pins of the 4-pin plug; NONE of these should read short circuit (zero resistance); depending which way you bias the test leads, you may get some reading (from the forward bias of the component) but it must absolutely not be a short. If you see a short on any of these readings the R/R is defective.

Next, do a resistance check on the stator (check at the cable connector going back towards the stator itself).
Measure between the three respective combinations of the three pins:
1-2
2-3
3-1
This time each of these should measure almost short circuit (very low resistance in order or about 1 ohm)
Also check from any one pin to the engine ground terminal – this should not read any indication – maximum resistance or open-circuit.
If you read ‘short’ in that last test, then your stator is bad.

Check the AC voltage output from the stator with engine running:
Leave stator disconnected from the R/R and start the engines.
With meter set to read AC Volts check
1-2
2-3
3-1
All three should be the same value – any significant difference of one reading will indicate a bad phase and the stator is probably defective.
At idle this should be ~ 20V* and rise to ~ 70V* at 5K rpm.
I hesitate to use absolute numbers here as this can be different between models and test equipment and especially the engine rpm!
What you are looking for is same between phases and like increase on each phase as rpm increases.
If any of the above tests raises suspicion, pull the cover & inspect the stator. It is simple to do and can set your mind at ease by seeing what it looks like. Hopefully NOT with 1/3 of it a black charred mess!

If you have to replace the stator and R/R, especially because of a shorted R/R and excess current drain, be especially careful to ensure that your wiring has not been compromised. Replace any cable &/or connector plug that is not in optimum condition.

***************************************

Ern

 

Do I also need to replace my battery? Voltage is high. Hope my battery is ok.

 

Take it to your local auto part store, most will load test a battery for free.
Ern

 

If my battery is bad and I replace my rr, will it hurt the rr or cause it to burn out?