NITROUS
 

Hey everyone i was wondering if anyone knew were i can get a nitrous kit for my 93 honda cbr 900rr any help would be appercaited!!

RE: NITROUS
 

Summit racing. Nitrous express, direct port wet kit is what you'll need. $627 if I remember correctly.

RE: NITROUS
 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

If the link doesn't work, use their search function and look up "motorcycle nitrous." The kit you'll need is NEX-60005.

RE: NITROUS
 

Please oh please oh please go nitrous.

First off, it's easy.

Second, it's cheap. For the price of just my turbo, I could have been spraying.

Third, I can use you as an example to help convince my friends to join me in Forced Induction Land where champagne rains from the heavens and the sun is always gently shining. Not gonna lie, our bikes are slow stock. Painfully slow.

Nitrous is a little more violent than a turbo since it's more of an on/off hit, so I wouldn't aim for as high of a horsepower goal as a turbo bike. But I talked to a guy on another board with a juiced 900RR a long time back when I was wanting to go the N2O route. I forgot what he was running, but I remember thinking to myself that at 60hp shot would be safe based on his experiences and the shot he was running. If I were you, I'd just tap the nozzles right into the vacuum ports below the carbs. There are 4 little holes, and only one is being used (a vacuum signal from the #3 cylinder opens the petcock). Unless you've got an earlier bike with the fuel pump. If that's the case, then there isn't a vacuum line to the petcock, which means one less complication. You can also tap into the rubber boots and run the nozzles between the carbs and the head's intake runners. That just doesn't seem like a solid, firm mounting point to me though. I'd use the vacuum holes or just drill & tap my own right next to them. Wedge a damp towel down the runner before you drill though. That way you can catch any metal shavings without the hassle of pulling the head off. A vacuum will also help suck out the smaller shavings that the towel might not secure very well.

Running a dry setup, nozzles in the airbox, or a single nozzle are all bad ideas. Simply because our bikes are carbed. If they were EFI, you could run the nozzles in the air box as a dry fogger system. Spray a dry shot through carbs, and you're going to be lean as hell. Spraying a wet shot through the carbs isn't great either. A wet DP setup tapped into the head's intake runners is the winning way to go. The link I posted is the wet DP kit that you'll need for this. And Summit was the cheapest source for the kit. I spent months searching. Nobody could even come close to $650. Other places were as high as the $900s for the EXACT same kit (same part # too).

If you know much about N2O kits, you could build your own for a fraction of the price of buying one. If you're not well versed in this, then don't try. It'll be a pain in the ass trying to find every little odd & end and even just figure out exactly what you'll need in the first place.

I've been dying to see someone squeeze on a 900. PLEASE do this. PLEASE.

RE: NITROUS
 

Fourth reason, if you're not grabbing the kit, the bike is completely stock & docile. No side effects like parasitic loss of a supercharger or heat from a turbocharger.

I suggest using three arming switches:
- A master arm switch (mount it on the black plastic thing below your left hand. the big black fairing thing. can't think of the name) to arm the entire system. Included in the kit I linked you too.
- A wide open throttle switch so that you don't accidentally spray under partial throttle and kiss your piston rings goodbye- or worse. This switch is usually mounted where the linkage assembly is between carbs 2 and 3. A simple contact switch. Pretty sure it's included in the kit I linked you too.
- A manually operated switch for a little better control. You can do without this one and just arm the kit, and then it'll spray any time you open the throttle all the way. However, if you don't want to do backflips in first gear and possibly second gear... or you want to sandbag and only spray on and off just enough to eek out a win without putting football fields on whatever you run ;). Ditch the horn. It's useless anyways. Use that horn switch as a manually operated switch. Now the kit will only spray when it is armed, the throttle is 100%, and you're pressing that switch with your thumb. The horn switch is perfectly located and perfectly designed to be corrupted in this fashion. It even depresses itself when your thumb isn't pressing it closed. Plus you can have your thumb on the switch while controlling the bike's actions and working the clutch. And it's subtle enough that nobody will notice your thumb is a little higher than it typically would be. You could spray, and nobody would ever know.


Say hello to 180whp. That puts you into big dog territory.

RE: NITROUS
 

180whp isnt exactly bigdog territory, but its def better.

still debating what kind of swill ill be slapping on my bike.

RE: NITROUS
 

That's enough that he'll be able to take down almost anything he comes across, whether it be a really fast car or another bike.

RE: NITROUS
 

i have put the gas on lots of cbrs fun and safe, i have always used the NOS kit. The most power i have seen on a dyno with a stock motor has been 212 and we sprayed this thing all day long. The best 1/8th mile time was a 5.78 at 126 which isn't to bad and that was almost 4 years ago. I would recomend using 18 nitrous jet and a 22 fuel jet for just play around this want hurt anything. Let me know if i could be any help.. And if u want to go cheap just find a 4 fogger setup on Ebay just besure it has the pump with it