The clutch on my 1997 RRV is tapping, it’s not the usual clutch rumble, or if it is it’s severe, pulling the clutch in does make it go away but it’s really bad, I can feel it through the handlebars on tick over, it feels like the centre nut has come loose and the clutch basket it rattling about, maybe it has!! , I guess I’ll have to pull the cover off and have a look but just wondered if anyone else has had this?

 

Sometimes that's the only way to tell. Good luck with your exploration.

 

I’ve only just found time to have a look at the clutch, can’t find much wrong so far, one odd thing is that the thrust bearing slides in the pressure plate, the Haynes manual describes this bearing as a press fit in the pressure plate.

I would have thought that the bearing should not slide in the bore on the pressure plate and that the reason it does is that the bore in the pressure plate has worn slightly, not sure this would contribute to the tapping I can feel in the clutch actuator arm with the engine running in neutral though.

Ive got the plates out now but had to stop there due to having to take father to docs, I’ll try to get back on it tomorrow.

I couldn’t feel any end float in the basket or hub and only fractional “wobble” on the basket when pulling it side to side, I would expect this to be normal due to tolerances in the centre bearing to shaft.

vid of thrust bearing

https://youtube.com/shorts/nnnx1-kJOyQ?feature=share

if the link doesn’t work just type “Marks RRV thrust bearing” into the YouTube search bar.

 

Make sure thrust-washer on inside is facing proper direction.
And 1st fibre plate is special one to clear thrust-washer.

Inspect springs on clutch-basket, one may have broken.

 

Thanks , yes I checked the orientation when I removed the plates, it was correct and no broken springs, hopefully I’ll get some time tomorrow to get back on it, I’ve got new plates, centre bearing, thrust bearing and springs ready to go back in so if I can’t find an obvious issue the hopefully the shotgun approach will work!.

 

In reviewing the Honda documentation it doesn't indicate that the Lifter Bearing is a press fit. Normally if the bearing needed to be pressed in or out, the manual would indicate that. It only says to replace the bearing.



Here it only indicates to just "Install the lifter bearing". Nothing special.



Item #19 on this page indicates it's a 16003 bearing.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...900rr-a/clutch

This page from a bearing supplier shows what the dimensions are for it. You could measure yours to see if there is any wear. I would think that the Pressure Plate would show signs of wear if it was supposed to be press fit as well as marks from installation/removal. You can also pick up this bearing from a local supplier. You don't have to go to Honda to get it.

https://www.qualitybearingsonline.co...ing-17x35x8mm/

 

Thanks IDO, Haynes says press fit but Haynes is often wrong as we know, I’ve got the workshop manual on my phone not sure why I didn’t check it!.
there are some very fine rotational marks in the pressure plate where the bearing sits (on the axial face), so the bearing has spun, clearly that shouldn’t happen, strange because the bearing feels really good, I’ve replaced it with a new one though, really I should replace the pressure plate but the chance of getting a second hand one in better condition is probably slim, the new bearing went in as push fit with light finger pressure, no lateral movement can be felt between the out race and the pressure plate so it’s not rattling about in there, I’ll go with it.

I want to fit a new needle roller bearing in the clutch basket as well but that is described as a press fit/special tool

in the Honda WSM, I dare say I could drift the old one out and drift the new one in but I’d rather have it done on a press, trouble is I’ve just found out that the person that usually does such jobs for me is on holiday, grrrrr!

 

Holiday ?? Who approved that?? LOL. Often a socket of the right size will work just fine in pressing bearings and seals in and out. Important thing is providing the proper support for the Clutch Outer to prevent damage. Seems like you're making good progress.

 

Yes I’d usually use a socket, definitely on roller bearings but this needle roller has a lot of surface area (hence potentially a lot of friction to contend with when fitting) and very thin walls so I’m going to chicken out on this occasion , a friend has just recommended a local engineering firm so I’ll give them a try in the morning 👍

 

I got the needle roller fitted in the basket, they charged a whole £10, simple job with the correct kit I know but even so I thought that was very reasonable , anyway I need a quick hand hold from someone that has replaced a clutch basket on one of these!
When I was dismantling I noticed that the outer edge of the basket gear sits outboard of the primary gear by about 1mm maybe 1.5mm, on replacing the basket I have ended up with the exact same condition, so although I’m pretty sure that this is correct I’d like someone to say, “yes that’s how it should be!”