The PGM-Fi (ECU) for a 600RR is under the gas tank cover in front of the actual tank. Remove the seat then remove the tank cover. Remove two screws on the holder, pull the handles on the black and gray connectors and it releases.

PGM-Fi for the F4 series is in the tail. And either can be bought new through the online folks (Ron Ayers, Bike Bandit, etc) for around $700 or less (MSRP is around $1000).

 

Ok, So here is my advise before you just go replacing parts and it mayhelp you in the future .. first of all making a blind guess at diagnosis is a waist of money. take a Voltimeter and start with the coil's to see if they are discharging this will determine if your just looking at a burnt up coil or what ever ... if you have no spark move to the input side of the coil and test the voltage/resistance there. just move your way up the line... if you have a good spark then next would be to check the resistance on your injectors.. it is a VERY rare occasion when the pcm will be burnt up. Just doesn't happen all that often.. you said you replaced the battery and since then you havent been able to get it to start right? another thing is have you dumped the bike at all recently ? the tild sensor my be jammed up because of it which would result in a no fire situation as well. but allways start with the plugs and start your way up dude.. I know it might be daunting to think about tearing into your baby like that but its real simple to do. and you'll save a A** load of money by doing so. Let me know if you perform the volt test and then I will try to walk you through anything else to check.

 

I had issues with my RR not starting. The bike would turn over, but nothing else was starting on/working such as the fuel pump or the head light. I probed around and found that the grounds from all the circuits come together on the left side of the bike in this yellow block. I looked at it and found that the blocked had burned and wasn't allowing the circuits to connect to the ground. I fixed it and sure enough the bike was starting up. So, check to make sure that your ground is good.

 

get your hands on a voltimeter as stated above and just run through your electrics, i dont have an answer to your question, but it is worth some time on your own of some easier testing before you dish out big bucks. Parts around 50 bucks might seem worthless at the time but its better than a grand or two.....my 2 cents

 

Did you ever get your bike back? or have any updates?

 

The shop's been closed for the winter holiday, they open back up tomorrow. I have a replacement ECU sitting on my desk that I'm going to swap out as soon as I can get the bike back from the shop. I'll keep you all posted.

 

update ?

 

it's very rare that the ecu goes bad, sounds to me like a lazy shop that is trying to rape you. $400 for labor? give me a break.

i would first check for spark, then fuel. its not that hard to do i will also help you out through the process if you need it, if you have any mechanical knowledge you will do fine.

there are only a few sensors that would cause the bike not to fire( crank and cam sensors, tip sensor) so i would start there if you have no spark.

does the bike throw any FI codes? do you know how to check them?

 

$400 labor to swap a ECU out??? Dayum I'm in the wrong business lmao

 

Believe it or not, it was the ECU and she's running great now. I'm still a little confused as to how exactly the ECU went bad, and how I would have diagnosed it if it weren't for taking it to the shop. I checked all the basics before taking it in, and figured I was probably in over my head when it wouldn't even accept a bump start. Has anybody else had this same problem? I'm still a little mystified everything worked out, but certainly grateful to have my bike back!

Thanks for all the help here, I appreciate the advice and support. If anybody's in the Seattle area and wants to take a ride when it gets to be a little nicer out, shoot me a message.