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Shock Measurements - HELP!!
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Originally Posted by DrAwkwArD
(Post 1020456)
I'm looking to swap the garbage shock that is on the 99 F4 I just picked up with one from an 07-09 (not sure about 10) 600RR. It seems 03-06 had a different bottom mount that won't work with the 99 F4.
Here are the measurements I need if anyone could be so kind to take a few minutes: - Shock length from mount to mount (eye to eye) - Bottom mount width (actual width of the bottom mount on the face without the bolt hole) - Top mount width (same as above) - Distance from shock center to end of resi. Any help would be appreciated....even a drawing of the shock from a book or something like a diagram would help. Thanks!!! |
Originally Posted by DrAwkwArD
(Post 1020562)
Yep..............
Thanks though :icon_wink: |
And, not a lot of people are going to measure their shocks for you. Just look at the two, they're not even remotely the same. Good luck kid.
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Did you just try to pick a fight on a forum?
If you know all the answers, go do it punkass. ALL of you parking lot queens? Good attitude to have towards the people that should want to help a fellow "motorcyclist." Douchebag. Good luck :) |
PS- it's not thinking outside the box if somebody already did it. And made a youtube video out of it.
It looks like he's got it down. Watch the video, and do it. It seems like a lot of work for not a whole lot of progress in suspension. And I'm not a parking lot queen, pumpkin. |
Originally Posted by DrAwkwArD
(Post 1020726)
Ahh, you edited your response when I was typing.
It's literally almost NO work to do the conversion. If it bolts up it's a matter of twisting a wrench. With the bike already down to its bones, picking up a shock for under $40 and updating a 12 year old system is the best bang for the buck. The F4's rear is outdated and to think that it's not progressed a lot in what, 9 or so years from when the RR has come out is bull****. And I didn't ask for your faulty opinion...I kindly asked for some measurements. So again, if you don't have them, why are you still posting useless information and bad opinions? EDIT: And if it's still too soft in the rear after the update, all I would need to do is respring since the valving is updated to at least 2008 standards. It saves money AND time. A full respring and revalve could cost over $300 on that old shock and it STILL may not be as good as a stock 600rr shock. I can get an almost brand new 600RR shock for under $40 and have it resprung for around $120.....MUCH cheaper solution. But really, I don't know why I'm even explaining myself to you. Nobody is going to have those measurements. Why don't you ask somebody on ebay to measure it for you. Just order it and make it fit. Don't be a dbag dude. You've been on the forum for three weeks, don't act like that. I'm responding because my email tells me when the thread is responded too. So, if you're bike is torn apart, go do it. More power to you. Pictures when you're done. |
Originally Posted by DrAwkwArD
(Post 1020726)
The F4's rear is outdated and to think that it's not progressed a lot in what, 9 or so years from when the RR has come out is bull****.
Are the 2 shocks identical in length? F4 swing arm/shock/linkage has a far different geometry than the RR. Just bolting one on without completely modifying the whole rear can screw up your handling if they aren't = length. |
Oh it's no problem boss. Just be more informative next time? We get a lot of new kids trying to do the "newest swap" on all their stuff, and it gets obnoxious. Had you told me you were tracking her and needed to REALLY upgrade the suspension, I would have walked outside and measured my stuff for ya, haha.
I still vote to upgrade to something else, but I realize money is an issue. Welcome to America. So, if you think you can make the RR swap work, go for it. But if it seems like it might pose an issue, I would just save for a little longer and get an aftermarket upgrade. If I see my bike tonight I'll go out and look at it for you. |
Originally Posted by Dissevered
(Post 1020797)
Are the 2 shocks identical in length? F4 swing arm/shock/linkage has a far different geometry than the RR. Just bolting one on without completely modifying the whole rear can screw up your handling if they aren't = length.
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I hope this swap works out well, even if Im not taking this on a track a ebay shock will be LIGHTYEARS better than my 15yr f3 shock
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is the RR reservoir going to fit? and that 12.2 vs 12 inch difference would worry me, you may want to mod the linkage to adjust for that.
As for measurements, I have an 06 in pieces right now. I'd love to help you but I am not sure of the differences. If you can verify that an 06 has the same shock sizes as the 07-09, let me know. |
Originally Posted by DrAwkwArD
(Post 1021153)
The '06 isn't the same type of bottom mount so it wouldn't work without an adapter, but thank you for the offer.
.2 inches, and maybe even less depending on preload (remember, the shock IS "adjustable" a little bit) will be almost negligible to me. Having the change in geometry will make the bike turn in better however and I'll lose some top end stability, which I'm not worried about. A better handling bike at the possible expense (I'm not convinced there's much of a length difference) of top end stability is a definite trade off I'm willing to accept..and even embrace. Though, at TWS, the front straight speeds regularly top out bikes, so a steering stabilizer may be in my future somewhere...and will be needed if I end up racing in the CMRA half way through the year. I've measured the area where the resi will go and there is room for it. Anyway, sounds like you mostly know what you are getting your self into. If you wouldn't mind when you get this all figured out, let me know if you notice any handling problems. You won't notice them until you are pushing good times, just curious as to how much .2 inches will effect you. |
Originally Posted by DrAwkwArD
(Post 1021240)
Getting myself into?
Do you race? Or do a lot of trackdays? You know .2" is half a centimeter right? I dropped the triples on my 1125R father than that for a quicker turn in and to use more of the front tire....you're blowing this waaaay out of proportion. Regardless I'll let everyone know how I like the setup as well as the racetech stuff. |
Originally Posted by DrAwkwArD
(Post 1021251)
I'm a slow level 3 rider and I'm pushing the 1125 pretty hard, enough to need AMA spec rotors and pads...still not running penske or ohlins though. The idea to drop the front on the 1125R came from a guy who races it in the CMRA and WERA regionals. The little adjustments can hinder and help, as I'm certain you know. In this situation, it should help the slower relative handling of the F4 and the RRs damping valves should also help in smoothing **** out.
Where are you doing TDs at? NJMP and Beaver are closest right? Maybe mid-ohio? |
Originally Posted by DrAwkwArD
(Post 1021251)
I'm a slow level 3 rider and I'm pushing the 1125 pretty hard, enough to need AMA spec rotors and pads...still not running penske or ohlins though. The idea to drop the front on the 1125R came from a guy who races it in the CMRA and WERA regionals. The little adjustments can hinder and help, as I'm certain you know. In this situation, it should help the slower relative handling of the F4 and the RRs damping valves should also help in smoothing **** out.
Where are you doing TDs at? NJMP and Beaver are closest right? Maybe mid-ohio? |
Originally Posted by DrAwkwArD
(Post 1021813)
I really want to move back to the Pittsburgh area in the upcoming year or two. I WILL be riding mid-ohio if I do!!! :icon_razz:
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