Hey all,

I am new to this site, and just wanted to start off by saying that this place is a great source of info on all things CBR. I have been riding for about 18 years now, and my wife has been riding for about 2 ½ years. I have owned many many bikes in my riding career, but my last Honda was a 1988 CBR 1000 Hurricane. I currently ride an ’05 Gixxer 1K and an ’05 R1. We just picked up a new CBR 600RR for my wife, and I am in the process of doing some post purchase research. I have two questions, which I am hoping to get some insight on.

1) I was reading the owners manual, (yes, I actually do read those things), and all it mentions about “breaking in” the bike is ….. and I quote “…. Avoid full throttle starts and rapid acceleration.” For the first 300 miles. This is on page 216 of the manual. Now, having ridden liter bikes for so long, I’m used to the 500 to 600 mile, “do not exceed “X” rpm’s break in guidelines. Does this seem odd to anyone else?!?
2) Second, does anyone know how to release some of the preload on the rear shock? My wife is all of about 5’4” and 120 lbs., and she does NOT ride aggressively. I want to accomplish two things with this change. I want to take a little height out of the rear end of the bike, and I also want to correctly set it up for someone of her size. If anyone can also advise on any other ways to take some height out of the rear end WITHOUT USING A DOG BONE!!!!


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

 

I know for the first thing I was pretty suprised also. I figured there would be a set number of miles that you don't go over a certian speed. I asked around and was told for about the first 500 miles try not to exceed about 55 or 60 MPH and also don't stay at a constant speed for a long time. That is what I did to break my bike in......... Don't know if that is right....

 

you are actually supposed to vary your speed a lot. Dont just drive slow, rip it up a bit, just vary your driving, drive at 5k,6k,7k,8k, just dont keep it at one speed all the time. Also, If you use plain non detergent oil instead of the crazy synthetics for the first oil change and then switch back after that the pistons and rings set much better into the engine and it will be smoother for a lot longer. I have worked for crotchrocket dealers and my boys are at the newer bigger dealer and have been in the bike industry for years, and thats the best way to break em in. Don't pussyfoot the bike, or it wont rev right in high range later on. Switch it up a lot. Dont be tapping your rev limiter but smoothly accelerate up to some higher revs. I did a few rapid launches in my break in, but just a couple, and it is super smoothe and idles like a dream. Just make sure you let it heat up a bit before you ride it and its all good

 

in regards to the first question. thats not odd at all. while most manuals have been doing the x number of rpms for x number of miles method. its been shown by actual engine builders that thats not necessary and can do more harm than good. it has to do with seating piston rings. with todays machining technology and tolerances its not needed to do that. and can actualy cause the seals to not break in properly. most people recomend doing some wot runs to 60 mph. like 2-3 runs. not slipping the clutch like an idiot either just get movin a lil and hit wot to 60. use 3-4 gears just dont keep it in 1st. what it is is the lines in the cylinder walls which eat away at the tip of new rings to seal them. its not like they used to be it doesnt take forever to seat them in. also you can think of it this way. break it in how your gonna ride it. so dont worry about going over a certain rpm after id say 100-200 miles. just dont keep it at a constant high rpm untill maybe 600 miles or so.

 

i cant explain it too good right now but i know theres a site about this. just cant remember the url

 

So how long should I wait to change the normal oil I have in my bike over to synthetic oil??? I only have 400 miles on my bike right now. I was going to get my 600 mile service done and was wondering if I need to stay with the normal oil or can I switch over to the synthetic stuff.

 

Thanks for all the break-in info. I have pretty much had my wife breaking it in like she would ride it.

Any advise on the "suspension set-up issue?

 

sietek... since your up for reading the MOM, motorcycle owners manual... look at page 132. It list rear suspension spring preload. The tool kit behind the right side fairing has the pin spanner wrench to make the adjustments you are talking about.

 

Does anything needed to be changed from stock if I am riding it myself???

 

Josh, what are you asking? If you're replying to my post... the preload adjustment is different for every rider. It depends on how you ride, your weight and so on. The lower the number (1-7) will give you a softer ride and less rebound when you hit bumps. On the other hand, the 7 or higher setting will not absorb the bumps and give you a stiffer ride.