I know that is the nature of a 600...BUT...without buying a litre bike, any way to bring up the low rpm power? already went -1 on the front...noitce a difference...

Planning on buying Yosh's RS-5 complete setup to flatten the powerband some and bring up the hp....Powercommander Next....am I missing something?

Not ridding on the track (none close), just road ridding.

Thanks!

 

+3 in the back :-)

 

Why wouldn't I just drop another in the front then? I thought -1 front = +3 back.....plus only $25 for front instead of +3 back (a lot more $$$) and and I can keep the same chain. Does anyone know what the difference is between down fron t versus up back?

Good advice....have considered dropping down to 14 but still have that lull until higher rpms...no matter what I do to gearing [:@]

But Bling, probably what I'll do.....cheap and easy mod.

 

um -1 +3 is the way to go... -1 in the front is equivilent to 2 up in the rear... I had -1 +3 and i would whomp on litre bikes that my friends had... but they would still end up passing me if the rider was better than I was... but i have never lost in the 1/4 mile to a litre bike that ive raced... and ive raced plenty.... -1 +3 will give you what you need.... with minimal top end loss... ppl say you lose a lot... but think of it this way... your stock, and im -1 +3, I accelerate much faster than you, and TAP out my 6th gear, while you slowly try to catch up... who cares about top end, your doin 145anyways lol...

and with -1 +3 i hit my spedo to over 170+ easy... BUT... its wrong so i was prolly doin bout 150 if that... thats totally tapping on 6th gear revlimiter...

PLUS, WHEELIES IN 3RD AND 4TH EEEAAAASY standin up all day!!! lol

 

I'm totally sold on changing the gearing even more. But WHAT is the difference between chagning the trying to understand. Thanks

 

You might wanna do a 520 chain conversion on the bike too. These 600RR's run a 525 stock. Grab a 520 -1/+3 sprocket set and a nice D.I.D. 520 chain and youll enjoy a lot more acceleration. The 520 setup will require chain replacement a little more often, but not that bad. The smaller/lighter chain/sprocket setup allows you less rotating mass and unsprung weight. Enjoy!

 

So if -1 in the front =s +3 in the back...then why not just go -2 in the front...only $25 and can keep my stock chain...way cheaper and same result...unless someone really understands gearing and what the rear does exactly and how this differs from the front...truly want to know

 

Does anyone understand what he is asking... I'd like to know also. -1 +3 is the norm it seems. Then why not just drop 2 on the front? It's cheaper and you use the same chain, maybe have to remove a link or two to make up for the smaller front? Why change the front and rear, when you can change to front and have what you need? You see his math? Based on the 1 in the front equals +2 or 3 in the rear... -1 front + 3 rear would be the same as -2 front.