Help With Front Brake Sound
#1
Help With Front Brake Sound
I've got just about 115 miles on her now. From the start, I've heard a steady noise from the front brakes when I'm pushing the bike in or out of the garage in neutral with the engine turned off. It sounds for all the world like a brake pad dragging on the rotor on the front.
It's not a squeal or anything like that - just a steady grinding sound.
Is this normal? Or did they not get the brakes adjusted correctly at the dealer assembly time?
Brakes don't seem to overheat or anything. Can't hear it at all with engine running. Just when quiet.
Thanks!!!
It's not a squeal or anything like that - just a steady grinding sound.
Is this normal? Or did they not get the brakes adjusted correctly at the dealer assembly time?
Brakes don't seem to overheat or anything. Can't hear it at all with engine running. Just when quiet.
Thanks!!!
#2
RE: Help With Front Brake Sound
From what I have been told it is because the pads are centered (mostly metal) and they will continue to make that sound but it gets quieter after they are brocken in. sounds a little like scraping of metal to metal but harmless. Have a friend with a high dollar BMW and his is the same. But don't take my word for it I'm not a mechanic.
#5
RE: Help With Front Brake Sound
my step dad had two bikes when i lived at home. a kawaski(i kno i spelled it wrong), and a 100th anniversity screamin eagle(nice *** bike) and his also made that noise so when it came to my bike i knew what to kinda expect for noises. but his harley seems to shift so much harder. i would thin mine would shift hard but i was wrong
#6
#7
#8
RE: Help With Front Brake Sound
Our bikes use Sintered Metal Pads HH rated the highest friction rating possible. The trade off is they make some noise
Here's a quick write up I found.
Brake Pads
Checking Wear
Most brake pads have a groove in the friction material; this acts as a wear indicator. When the pad is worn up to that groove its time to replace. Remember it is a good idea to change both sets of pads on the front, at the same time. Never change just one pad in a caliper. If one pad in a caliper is wearing faster than the other, you have a partially seized caliper.
Kevlar pads
Usually the cheapest with the lowest friction rating GG, not suitable for modern high performance sports bikes.
Sintered Metal Pads
Have metal fragments embedded in the friction material for better grip and resistance to fade. Rated at HH they are usually fitted as original equipment to most sports bikes.
Racing Pads
Still rated at HH provide very little stopping power until hot, are much more resistant to fade than road pads and grip better. They do not last very long in comparison with road pads and are much more expensive.
Bedding In
Remember it takes about 250 miles for new pads to bed in to the profile of the disks. Apply your brakes gently and avoid overheating until bedded in.
Here's a quick write up I found.
Brake Pads
Checking Wear
Most brake pads have a groove in the friction material; this acts as a wear indicator. When the pad is worn up to that groove its time to replace. Remember it is a good idea to change both sets of pads on the front, at the same time. Never change just one pad in a caliper. If one pad in a caliper is wearing faster than the other, you have a partially seized caliper.
Kevlar pads
Usually the cheapest with the lowest friction rating GG, not suitable for modern high performance sports bikes.
Sintered Metal Pads
Have metal fragments embedded in the friction material for better grip and resistance to fade. Rated at HH they are usually fitted as original equipment to most sports bikes.
Racing Pads
Still rated at HH provide very little stopping power until hot, are much more resistant to fade than road pads and grip better. They do not last very long in comparison with road pads and are much more expensive.
Bedding In
Remember it takes about 250 miles for new pads to bed in to the profile of the disks. Apply your brakes gently and avoid overheating until bedded in.