Today I got that glory call from teh Honda Dealer about my part arriving.. I went to pick up the pulse gen and installed it.. GUESS WHAT.... NO DAG ON SPARK STILL.. Im so pissed.. I was ready to ride all night long.. Any suggestions.. Throw them this way.

 

Before any conclusions can be made about anything at all you need to do proper diagnoses static and dynamic testing through out the ignition system. The coils COULD be one thing. But without proper testing how can you know? How often does ONE coil go bad?? Not too often right? So the chance that ALL coils went bad at the SAME time is a pretty far fetched scenario. I'm not saying its not possible. Someone could have been doing a compression test when you took it in to get your dying issue fixed I suppose and didn't disconnect the coils causing them to fry out. That would be the only case of that happening really. When doing a compression test if you don't disconnect the coils or ground them out and you're turning the engine over, voltage is still being sent to the coils. But the voltage doesn't have anywhere to go. It causes the primary side of the coils to get very hot and and fry the primary side. You might want to check on that.

This whole thing COULD be caused by the CDI box. Maybe theres an open circuit in the ignition switch. Maybe the coils lost their grounds. Were all the coils even tested? Or just the one? Maybe the pulser coil (aka crank position sensor) went bad. There's a TON of things it could be. And simply assuming it could be one thing and slapping a new part on your bike is going to cost you money. Test, test, test, test , test, and test.

I haven't taken a look at the wiring schematics of the f4 yet. But if you need me to I will draw a block diagram out of the ignition system for you. Hell, this is the internet there might be one chilling out there for you. And I can tell you what wires to test where and how to test them.

I hate saying this sometimes but the best thing you can do to find the problem the fasted is take it in.

Let me know what you want to me to do.

About this comment here. That does not sound good in the least. I would hope this would be it but you said your battery was fully charged... low battery having trouble turning the starter motor over.

After the pop did it continue to crank then stop? Or did it crank with ease after that?

Were your plugs in when you turned the motor over this time?

It wasn't doing it before?

Sounds like that could be hydro-lock... Gasoline could of somehow got on top of your piston. Liquid doesn't compress and if there was enough gasoline in there you could have bent a connecting rod.

Did you mess with the cam chain at all?

The cam sprocket could have jumped teeth and when you were cranking the engine over your piston may have been hitting one of your valves bending a valve or snapping the whole head off.

Its something that is unanswerable over the forums of the exact problem with that. Sounds like bad juu-juu though.

 

OK..the other day I did some testing on the wiring and harnesses.. I tested the harness that connects the CDI to the coil pack harness. This harness has 5 sets of prongs. I tested them all for power and they are all showing 12.28V. Which means there is power. I checked all the CDI's connections for current or ground. listed are the results:
(N/A) means there was no connecter at that point

Left to Right, Top to Bottom
Top Bottom
0 N/A
N/A N/A
0 0
12.24 N/A
01 N/A
12 N/A
12 .04
12 0
01 0
12 0
01 N/A

As for the noise, that happened durring the recent crank... The bike cranks as normal now. Im going to do some new testing tomorrow and see if there is something different. Can someone please check to see if they have the same voltage. The breakdown in teh manual shows that the harness I checked... 4 wires rin to the spark plugs and 1 runs to the on/off switch. I am wondering if something is goinf on with the spark, weird for all teh spark plugs to have 2 connections, both being positive.. Any ideas? does anyone have any ideas, or can they test their harness for me to see if they get the same connection..

 

The coils all have a common 12v supply which runs through the engine stop switch. The coil circuit is essentialy two seperate circuits. The 12v supply to each of them & ground, and the primary wire for spark from the ICM & ground. Peak voltage on the primary wire needs to be at least 100v when cranking. How did that timing rotor look? Is it completely straight and aligned athe right way? Check that the ICM ground connection is good. I would go as far as taking it off, cleaning up the contact spot and reattaching it, just to make sure.

 

try regulator rectifier