I have had my F4 for 3 months and yesterday noticed slight vibration when the clutch is let out and its in neutral. The bike has 13,500 miles and I don't think the clutch has ever been replaced. Also when I place my hand on the clutch cover I can feel the vibration start and stop when I let out and pull in the clutch. Any thoughts as to if this is normal or a sign that the clutch needs to be replaced?

 

funny. just bought the same bike. same milage. same question. i hear/feel the same in neutral. i think its normal. hopefully it can be confirmed.

 

I've got the same thing.

I've been told that it's just the clutch plates rattling around a bit. Most bikes get this when they've got a few years behind them, and it's nothing to really worry about. To fix the problem would mean replacing a bunch of parts in the clutch, which wouldn't be cheap.

 

Yeah the F4's are pretty much tanks when it comes to staying functional. ((Disclaimer: What is recommended below is my personal mantra and the proper OEM Settings can be found in a Haynes Manual and I recommend preforming a complete tune up at every tire change.))

Remember:
1-To change your oil every 1100 miles if the bike has more than 21000 miles on it along with the oil filter (Same time as the change)
1a-When buying oil, and oil filter they will usually ask you if you need a crush gasket along with the oil filter. This is a good idea to get because sometimes the previous owner might have overtightened the oil filter and crushed the gasket causing minor oil leakage / or forgot to put a ring of oil - on the oil filter causing it to drylock onto the mount. (PAIN IN THE ***!!). So be sure to get a crush gasket for that 'just in case' clause. As for track bikes, change the oil after every race, oil filter after ever other race.

2-Change the spark plugs - (NGK IRIDIUMS = VERY GOOD!!)

3-Coolant Flush every season / every change in weather or 4000 miles.

4-Chain and Sprockets need/are recommended, to be replaced at the same time. Have a professional do this.

5-Front has 2 sets of (4 total individual pads) brake pads that need to be replaced

5a-Rear has 1 set of (2 total individual pads) brake pads that need to be replaced DO NOT LET YOUR PADS WEAR DOWN AND GO WITHOUT REPLACEMENTS! Not only is it extremely stupid and unsafe. But the cost of a replacement disk is expensive as a part and labor point of view. If you already have worn down disks, get a softer compound that is less abrasive until you are able to replace the disk.

5a - sidenote: During the replacement of pads you will need to bleed the brake lines and re-fill the brake fluid reservoirs accordingly (Front, by the right clip-on handlebar) ; (Rear, under the seat on the right side of the frame).