Split seat for a f4.
#1
06-06-2007 | 04:50 AM
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 57
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From:
Split seat for a f4.
Hi, I had a few people wondering if I can make a post about installing a Split seat from a 01-02 F4i on to a F4. So here we go. Sadly I did not take any pictures as I went a long, but I will try to take more in depth pics of the finished work tomorrow and add them later. First off, if you have a 03 or newer F4i with the banana seat I’m not sure if your bikes have the same Sub frame as the 01-02’s. Or if it’s like the ones found on the 99-00 F4, So you will have to figure out if it will work. But it’s easy to see if it is going to work or not once you have your tail fairing in you hand. First off I will note the parts you will need from A F4i for this swap:
-Sub frame.. (duh)
-Tail fairing
-Seat(s) or go with the flashy Fiber glass cover like mine, but I will be getting a seat since it’s a snap to switch back and forth.
- Battery tray
- Fender, Now you can go two ways here, get A after marker one that will include the tail lights and signals with all the wiring in one neat little package. Or get with the stock, and make sure you have the tail light and a set of signals and a plate mount. I got a Hotbodies and I have to say it’s a hunk of ****, but do what you want. (BTW if any one with a 01-02 wants to trade a stock fender, tails and signals for a black LED Hotbodies drop me a line)
-Passenger foot pegs and mounts. They are different and the ones from your F4 will not fit. So make sure you get them with your Sub frame.
-Slip-on. Because the passenger pegs are in a little different spot your stock pipe will not line up to the mount location. If you have a aftermarket pipe that allows you to move the hanger mount location your in luck
-Blots, there are about, 14 blots of different size and shape that you will need. For bolting down the seat, bolting the fairing by the tank, mounting the battery tray to sub frame by the rear lights, there is also 2 long blots that stick out for a net right behind the seat, and 4 of those little silly plastic Phillip things that always break. There is prolly some more if you use the stock finder.
The installation is quite straight forward. Start by removing the tail fairing on your F4, then pull all the relays on the side of the sub frame, and unbolt the regulator. Remove the Master cylinder for the rear break, and unbolt the pipe. Then unbolt the sub frame and hold it up over you head like if you won the Stanley cup (trust me you will be happy to get it off the bike). The F4i peace just blots up, and I just laid all my relays on the battery tray. Make sure you mount the regulator on the frame on some kind of plate to make sure it can transfer heat to the sub frame to cool, it has no other way of cooling and you will melt it if you just leave it under the seat. Make sure you get your tumbler from your trunk, it just pops out and pull the cable off it. Then after that its pretty much just bolting every thing back together in the same fashion as it came apart. I’m not quite sure on the steps you have to take if your using the stock lights, but if you have made it this far, its not rocket science I’m sure you will figure it out. Then you will be able to enjoy your new frilly seats and your bike will look like a sport bike not a sv or something. The one thing I noticed off the bat is the seat is much harder, but the bike is a lot easier to control and I think you sit a little bit lower. [font=
-Sub frame.. (duh)
-Tail fairing
-Seat(s) or go with the flashy Fiber glass cover like mine, but I will be getting a seat since it’s a snap to switch back and forth.
- Battery tray
- Fender, Now you can go two ways here, get A after marker one that will include the tail lights and signals with all the wiring in one neat little package. Or get with the stock, and make sure you have the tail light and a set of signals and a plate mount. I got a Hotbodies and I have to say it’s a hunk of ****, but do what you want. (BTW if any one with a 01-02 wants to trade a stock fender, tails and signals for a black LED Hotbodies drop me a line)
-Passenger foot pegs and mounts. They are different and the ones from your F4 will not fit. So make sure you get them with your Sub frame.
-Slip-on. Because the passenger pegs are in a little different spot your stock pipe will not line up to the mount location. If you have a aftermarket pipe that allows you to move the hanger mount location your in luck
-Blots, there are about, 14 blots of different size and shape that you will need. For bolting down the seat, bolting the fairing by the tank, mounting the battery tray to sub frame by the rear lights, there is also 2 long blots that stick out for a net right behind the seat, and 4 of those little silly plastic Phillip things that always break. There is prolly some more if you use the stock finder.
The installation is quite straight forward. Start by removing the tail fairing on your F4, then pull all the relays on the side of the sub frame, and unbolt the regulator. Remove the Master cylinder for the rear break, and unbolt the pipe. Then unbolt the sub frame and hold it up over you head like if you won the Stanley cup (trust me you will be happy to get it off the bike). The F4i peace just blots up, and I just laid all my relays on the battery tray. Make sure you mount the regulator on the frame on some kind of plate to make sure it can transfer heat to the sub frame to cool, it has no other way of cooling and you will melt it if you just leave it under the seat. Make sure you get your tumbler from your trunk, it just pops out and pull the cable off it. Then after that its pretty much just bolting every thing back together in the same fashion as it came apart. I’m not quite sure on the steps you have to take if your using the stock lights, but if you have made it this far, its not rocket science I’m sure you will figure it out. Then you will be able to enjoy your new frilly seats and your bike will look like a sport bike not a sv or something. The one thing I noticed off the bat is the seat is much harder, but the bike is a lot easier to control and I think you sit a little bit lower. [font=
#4
06-06-2007 | 01:37 PM
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 57
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From:
RE: Split seat for a f4.
I looked in to the cluster swap, and I think at this point your better off getting A F4i. Because the F4i has fuel injection, the cluster (to my knowledge) is driven off the ECU, and do not respond the system the F4 has. Not to mention you will need the brace off the F4i that will not work with the F4’s upper fairing that means you will need the F4i’s upper fairing, lights air ducts and a bunch of other odds and ends. By all means giver a shot let me know how you make out.
#7
01-05-2009 | 04:25 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
RE: Split seat for a f4.
good writeup, also people can check out http://www2.hawaii.edu/%7Ekuroyana/f4imain.htm
as for the cluster swap for the F4, it's possible. a lot of F3 riders do it. i was looking to do it and found a great tutorial for an F3 swap and found that you need to ground the wire for your ram air solenoid, which i believe will leave it closed all the time (that's more of a question...) which seems to me like it would hinder performance, and that's what made me think twice about the swap.
but those lights sure do look purty when you start it up.
if anyone is still interested in the F4i cluster swap, check out http://cbrworld.net/forums/1/219055/ShowThread.aspx
as for the cluster swap for the F4, it's possible. a lot of F3 riders do it. i was looking to do it and found a great tutorial for an F3 swap and found that you need to ground the wire for your ram air solenoid, which i believe will leave it closed all the time (that's more of a question...) which seems to me like it would hinder performance, and that's what made me think twice about the swap.
but those lights sure do look purty when you start it up.
if anyone is still interested in the F4i cluster swap, check out http://cbrworld.net/forums/1/219055/ShowThread.aspx
#8
01-08-2009 | 01:58 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
From: Belle Plaine, MN
RE: Split seat for a f4.
ORIGINAL: knowephecs
good writeup, also people can check out http://www2.hawaii.edu/%7Ekuroyana/f4imain.htm
as for the cluster swap for the F4, it's possible. a lot of F3 riders do it. i was looking to do it and found a great tutorial for an F3 swap and found that you need to ground the wire for your ram air solenoid, which i believe will leave it closed all the time (that's more of a question...) which seems to me like it would hinder performance, and that's what made me think twice about the swap.
but those lights sure do look purty when you start it up.
if anyone is still interested in the F4i cluster swap, check out http://cbrworld.net/forums/1/219055/ShowThread.aspx
good writeup, also people can check out http://www2.hawaii.edu/%7Ekuroyana/f4imain.htm
as for the cluster swap for the F4, it's possible. a lot of F3 riders do it. i was looking to do it and found a great tutorial for an F3 swap and found that you need to ground the wire for your ram air solenoid, which i believe will leave it closed all the time (that's more of a question...) which seems to me like it would hinder performance, and that's what made me think twice about the swap.
but those lights sure do look purty when you start it up.
if anyone is still interested in the F4i cluster swap, check out http://cbrworld.net/forums/1/219055/ShowThread.aspx
#10
05-12-2009 | 05:15 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 938
Likes: 2
From: Canada
You would have to do some modifications to the original subframe for it to accept the rear seat / seat cowl. Just surf eBay for a subframe, it would be a lot easier.