CBR 600F4 1999 - 2000 Honda CBR 600F4 Forum

RC51 Gauge Swap DIY (in progress)

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  #11  
Old 04-30-2011, 11:23 AM
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This thread has all sorts of WIN!

Nice DIY write up LCRF4.

Would like to see a final pic w/ the front cowl/windscreen on the bike.
 
  #12  
Old 04-30-2011, 01:35 PM
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Um i'll go snap a pic or too here in a minute. It looks like it belongs there though... I have read that the cluster is "supposed" to be hard to see in direct sunlight, but there was not a cloud in the sky yesterday and I had no problems seeing it. It is tucked up rather far though so that might be helping that. It looks awesome at night... just hope i can find what came loose with out taking it all the way down again.
 
  #13  
Old 04-30-2011, 05:35 PM
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Well didn't really mess around with it to much... spent more time in some internet research though... still tach only at idle?? under any sort of load it drops off... where it was fine for about an hours worth of riding... has to be something loose...

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a little tight against the screen bolt.
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installed and quasi-functional.... when your doing something that no one else has done... there are always bugs that need sorted out...
 
  #14  
Old 04-30-2011, 08:29 PM
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well went riding for a good 2.5-3hrs... the tach has come back... and the condition seems resolved for the most part... i'd say 80% of the time i have a function tach with almost the other 20% its flutter between it's nominal and half value... so it has to be something loose somewhere!

Does an F4i come with a a different temp sensor? and does this just bolt in?
 
  #15  
Old 04-30-2011, 08:50 PM
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Thanks for the pics. You're right, it does look like it belongs there.

I remember reading the temp sensor was an issue when doing the F4 to F4i gauge swap. Don't know how that relates to the RC51 cluster but most likely its relevant.
 
  #16  
Old 07-03-2011, 02:42 PM
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I'm confused in regards to your tach signal adapter. In your writeup and pics, you have the resistors and diodes in parallel. That defeats the purpose of the diode because current (at a reduced voltage) will backflow around the diode via the resistor. Additionally when current flows in the forward direction, you are getting full voltage (or close) via the diode thus negating the purpose of the resistor.

I think you need to redo this so they are in series. You probably got lucky with your cylinder selection. As you have it set up, had you got two cylinders, one on intake stroke and one on fire stroke, you would have had some damage/backfire. Just FYI.

Otherwise, very nice! Did you ever sort out the temp sensor issue?
 
  #17  
Old 08-14-2011, 12:48 PM
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Update... after much electrical woe Ala crappy regulators and burned up batteries from them... my bike is now rideable!!!!

Currently the gauge is functional with the temp gauge not working, but after looking at the service manuals for both the F4 and the RC, it seems that both bikes thermo sensors have identical resistance / heat range. Since the gauge only really reads 270... I believe my sensor may have gone bad. I'm gonna test it out soon but for now just enjoying what's left of the season. Also due to all of the voltage problems I installed a Stinger LCD voltage gauge, which I love!
 
  #18  
Old 08-14-2011, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by LCRF4
Update... after much electrical woe Ala crappy regulators and burned up batteries from them... my bike is now rideable!!!!

Currently the gauge is functional with the temp gauge not working, but after looking at the service manuals for both the F4 and the RC, it seems that both bikes thermo sensors have identical resistance / heat range. Since the gauge only really reads 270... I believe my sensor may have gone bad. I'm gonna test it out soon but for now just enjoying what's left of the season. Also due to all of the voltage problems I installed a Stinger LCD voltage gauge, which I love!
got some pics?
 
  #19  
Old 03-27-2012, 02:46 PM
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Can you take pics of your fairings? I was looking into the playboy ones but wanted to see them on a F4 /F4i

Thanks man and did you ever get everything working right?
 
  #20  
Old 04-04-2012, 04:06 PM
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I have pictures on here somewhere from when I joined.... here is the thread...
https://cbrforum.com/forum/new-membe...teaser-121815/

Everything still works great... when the voltage dips low i.e. cooling fan is on or at cold start up the tach is a lil screw for a minute or two, but that is all. I haven't yet replaced the temp sensor so that pesky red light is always on. Mainly because my bike has been running superbly and I've been riding the wheels of it. I'm also building a Suzuki cafe racer right now so that is taking up most of my time... With another two suzuki GS500 race bikes (unbeatable deal) on the way, I will have my hands full in the garage. Since right now there are already 4 bikes, with additional 2 inbound, and my roommate wants me to build her a Cafe'd sportster... I 'm running out of room and tupper ware tubs for parts! But it seems to as if business is going good with flipping bikes this season, so i'm gonna keep at it and get to the F4 mods when I can. I will be ditching the PLayboy as of over the winter... I dropped it putting it on the rear stand and a lower got slightly cracked and has a small area where it is chipped. So they will prolly be ebay bound this late fall for a good deal. I'm going to be doing a one of mono chromatic repsol replica more than likely.
 
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