I got this bike this a few weeks ago with a title for $400. I've been working on getting it back in working order. The fairings are completely beat up, as is most of the bike, but the frame and all the important parts are there and seemingly unharmed.





First order of business was fixing the stator cover that was smashed in. The hardest thing about that process was getting the old gasket off. Razor blade, plastic scraper, and finger nail and about an hour of work and it was a clean surface. Once that was done, the oil was changed.




Then I had to put in a new ignition and gas cap. I ordered the whole lockset for $30 from ebay. The bike also needed a battery and a main fuse. The bike had obviously sat out in the rain with the tank off because the intakes were full of water, which I sucked out with some tubing and a plastic bottle. I fogged the cylinders with some fogging oil before I cranked for the first time. I left the spark plugs out and cranked and the rest of the water got spat out. The compression was good on all cylinders, about 240 psi with the fogging oil. I noticed when I went to do a compression test, I noticed that I had no spark. However, the cheap Chinese engineering wasn't wired properly and didn't include the diode to the pink wire on the ignition or the connection to the fan power wire. A 5.1V Zener diode from Radio Shack and some soldering solved that problem, and I had spark. I put in a new set of spark plugs as well.

Next I moved on to the carbs. The boots were barely connected to the intake manifold and were stiff as a board, so they are getting replaced. I started breaking down the carbs for cleaning and quickly decided it would be worth a full break down and split of the carbs to replace the broken down rubber seals as well. This is where I'm at now. The carbs are all broken down and separated, waiting to go in some chem-dip for a bath.






Obviously a ton more work to do before it would close to being able to sell. A few things I can think of...

Finish up the carb work and get everything reinstalled and get her running
Handlebars and levers need replaced
Clutch cable needs replaced
Chain probably needs replaced
Rear tire
One rear set is broken off, and the other is bent
Needs turn signals of some kind in front
General clean up and odds and ends.

 

Mate keep us updated, this is a great thread and nice to see you giving some love to an old bike. Are you doing up to sell then? Or keep? You can pick up a chinese fairing kit for £250 quid, and they're spot on, not quite the quality but you know what, they work! All sprayed and also stickers on them OR you rub your originals down and get them sprayed?

So, what's the plans?

 

good job on the bike buddy, why did you put a 5.1V zener diode while everybody is talking about a 3.9V zever diode ? how did you come up with this ? I don't have any sparks on mine even if I replaced a some ignition parts....I currently have a OEM 3.9V zener diode in it but...NO ****ING SPARKS !

 

First a little update. I ended up selling the bike for $1500, and I had $1300 in just parts into it. That's not including tools that I bought for the project and my time of course. I didn't replace the fairings or do any real cosmetic work. I did install a new chain and mirrors with integrated LED signals (with load resistors) to make the bike legal. The bike ran really well before I sold it. It was a fun ride.

As far as the diode, I used the 5.1v diode on due to a thread I saw on either another forum or somewhere on this one. It's also the only one readily available at Radio Shack. I did have some trouble at first because I was installing it backwards. I think the packaging actually had the polarity wrong. I was getting a little over 11v at the pink wire, which is how I knew the polarity was reversed. Once it was flipped around I got around 7v, and I had spark. I ended up not using any in resistors in line. I think there are resistors in the ICU that take care of the load.

 

Do you remember if you had your 7v while cranking or only when you turned your key on ?

 

That was just with the key on.

 

Damn...I bought a new OEM ignition switch base and I get 10.5 volt ish. I think I will remove and switch the diode around !