I have put about 500 miles on the bike so far... once in a while I have noticed that the rpms will start to stumble a bit.. and if I don't do anything she will stall... if I get on the throttle quick it will be fine... so on longer rides all is well.. but in traffic... and the engine temp creeps up a bit.. and the fan is on.. well she dies.. it will start pretty much right back up...

I heard about this issue, but at first I didnt have any signs on it...

I have also been feeling some slight heat from behind my legs. more on the left hand side (I think)... on the left side there is the ignition module CDI.. on the other side is the rectifier / regulator...

now on a car.. if the ignition module is going bad it is very affected by heat... but then it wouldnt work until it cooled down.. and my bike will start right up... the regulator... if it isnt putting enough power out.. the bike would stall.. which is what it seems like it is doing...

I tested the bike at idle (1400ish) and it was like 12.8-12.9v. A quick blip on the throttle (was holding the multimeter, flashlight, and throttle by myself) and it seemed to be in the 14v range (not sure if it was low 14, mid 14 or high 14)

I did a search on here and read a ton of stuff.. but nothing seemed definitive... is there an actual upgrade for the F4? I see that the F4i R/R puts out much more amperage... but it isnt a plug and play it seems... or is it? Can an F4i R/R be used as an upgrade?

I see parts on ebay like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CBR60...item3a56f83c23

It claims "PATENTED TECHNOLOGY allows you to access the full power of your engine, by controling
STATOR PULL.

 

Honda Regulator/Rectifier - Super Duty

• It is plug & play
• It has a 1 year warranty
• Electrosport aftermarket r/r's have been used by others, here and on other forums, with good reviews

Honestly, looking at that eBay one, I don't imagine how it could be much better than the OEM. It looks like it relies on the frame mount to dissipate heat, same as the OEM. And that's what kills r/rs

 

Here is another one I came across

http://www.rmstator.com/en/motorcycl...00_f4_/240.htm

Savior or snake oil? lol

 

Thanks! This is great to know that others have had success with it... I'm going to test my R/R according to the service manual, and if it fails (or close to fails) I'll get one of these.

Adam

 

So is this the way to go? I don't want to 'replace'.. I want to 'upgrade'.

On one of my Mustangs, I upgraded the 75A alternator to a 130A from a newer one to handle additional electrical loads..

If the F4i r/r can be made to work relatively easily and will work without adverse effects.. why hasnt anyone posted about it? This seems to be such a common problem on the F4 that I find it unreal that nobody has come up with a real solution (unless there is one out there!)

ugh! I don't want to worry everytime I am in traffic on a hot day..
Adam

 

i had a guy with the same prob and the reason it would die and start right back up is because it was slowly loosing power at idle as it was getting hotter. but since he was broke and i like to play redneck mcgiver we ended up putting a small 12v(desktop cpu standard) fan right on it with it on a switch at first. then he got tired of having to remember it and i hooked it up to his neutral light. he never had a problem(with that) again. i know it sounds kinda ghetto but it works and its cheap if thats what you're lookin for.

 

That is somewhat ghetto, but sound... I might drain some coolant and add some redline water wetter.. I run that in my car and it drops the engine temp a bit.. this might help with the fan coming on so much...

I also found this through a search on here..

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...ator-Rectifier

 

i got a new reg/rec there, never had the problem again.

 

Where? Sorry.. there are a good amount of links above.. lol

Adam

 

OK.. just spoke to regulatorrectifier.com They were really nice (online chat) and recommended the $89.99 one

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...ectifier-82636

Is this the one that you have? I tested voltage with a DVOM at the battery terminals.. at idle it was like 13.1x with low beam on.. then with brake light on.. dropped to maybe 12.8x... revved it to 5K and it was steady at 14.00v...

then the rpms dropped and it oddly stayed at high 13s at 1400-1500 rpm... weird... low beam vs high beam is somewhat pronounced.. man you can really see the drain from hitting the brake light... I'm going to ride with the low beams on from now on to see if that does anything...

still wondering why i felt more heat on the left hand side than the right... weird too..