Signs of a bad oil pump? Is it easy to replace? My bike gets hot at stops, almost pegging the gauge. If I'm moving its fine but if I go into city going from light to light the fan can't keep up and someone told me its probably my oil pump. I thought they were rare to go and my F4 only has 7k miles.

 

Do you mean water pump?

 

Before I'd start swapping major parts, I'd do a thorough flush and replace the thermostat. Replace the coolant with this stuff and see how things go.
https://www.valvoline.com/our-produc...freeze-coolant (run the bike up to temp with the rad cap off to burp the system and ensure that the system is full of coolant)

I'm assuming that you mean 'water pump', as a real problem with the oil pump is much more rare (and fatal) to the engine. The real sign of a bad oil pump is a frozen and trashed motor.

 

No I meant oil pump, I already have ice in my rad, it was added and burped by a shop so I'm hoping thats not it, I was told by another guy that as the oil pump starts to fail the bike will run with lower oil pressure causing more friction and heat.

 

The motor would lock up or grenade long before that friction would make enough heat to register on the coolant temperature guage.

A simple oil pressure test would confirm your pressure. Then you can start focusing on the cooling system.

 

easy way of running a pressure test on the F4?

 

Hook up a pressure guage to the check port.

 

The major difference between Engine Ice and the coolant I linked to is that Engine Ice is propylene glycol (PG) based and most coolants are made from ethylene glycol (EG). PG is much more environmentally friendly than the EG based coolant. However, PG is less efficient at heat removal, and has a lower boiling point as well. IME, you usually end up paying extra for that environmentally friendly stuff, and if the coolant is specified for powersports or says anything about motorcycles you can triple the price.

In addition, there's the consideration of the protection of the aluminum (the radiator [probably, though some rads are copper & steel] and certainly the motor). Water and aluminum are a terrible combination, and you have to be able to rely on the expertise of the coolant manufacturer to do their job and make sure you're covered. So I'd rather trust a manufacturer that has been making engine protection products for 150+ years than anyone else. It takes resources ($$) to experiment with formulations, and in that regard the big manufacturers have it over the small guys in a major way.

Hope you figure out what's going on, but high-performance engines have plenty of waste heat to get rid of and aren't usually happy in heavy traffic where stop & go is the rule. Sometimes all you can do is make sure that your cooling system is in top shape and pull over for a few minutes if things get really toasty.

 

where is the check port? sorry to ask

 

Should be on the engine case, right side, below the cover.

You could also take pressure reading at the oil pressure switch if your gauge fits there. It's harder to get to....

There is a gauge set up that uses the oil filter to tap into. Easy if you can find one.